903 Pine
314-241-5667
Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat, open late Thu–Sat
An unassuming storefront on a fairly quiet block holds downtown St. Louis’ latest restaurant phenom. What’s the secret of Sauce on the Side? While it’s not the first place in St. Louis to serve calzones, those pizza-dough turnovers, it is the first to spotlight them. Moreover, the food is good, and the price is right.
You order at the counter, whether you’re going or staying. Owners Dan Porzel, Brendan Maciarello, and Ryan Mangialardo have hired an amiable staff to execute their simple, timely concept. The dining room shows more style than many local lunch spots, and the bar offers high aluminum chairs. The menu shows plenty of originality, as well as some fallback options for the gastronomically hesitant.
Of the calzones we tried, the Fatty B has the most traditional Italian ingredients, with provolone, mozzarella, and ricotta cheese; pepperoni; meatballs tasting of Italian sausage; onions; and roasted garlic—plenty of roasted garlic, the aroma filling the air. The crust is impressive, tender but firm, cooked through but not burnt. The Fatty B also comes with spicy red sauce for dipping, one of 10 sauce choices.
The Which Came First…? calzone contains pulled chicken, bacon, onion, jalapeños, mozzarella, and an egg peeking out the top. With much less cheese and far more protein than the Fatty B, the dish’s combined ingredients are excellent. The salsa verde on the side is citrus-y from the tomatillos and not killer hot, though the dish’s jalapeños compensate for any deficit in spiciness. (Speaking of heat, the ’zones are made to order.)
Our favorite calzone, though, was the Gonzo. The Dagwood-esque combination of ingredients is enough to cause most folks’ jaws to drop: It’s stuffed with salami; dates; baby spinach; and boursin, mozzarella, mascarpone, and ricotta cheese. All of the flavors work well together, a sort of sweet-salty combo riding the creamy waves of cheese. The restaurant suggests pairing the calzone with garlic-butter sauce or garlic oil, though we wonder whether a sprinkle of cracked red pepper before baking might also be a good touch.
The restaurant also offers some non-calzone dishes. A Smokehouse salad features tender lettuce, pancetta, corn, smoked cheddar, pear tomatoes, basil, and a hot-sweet barbecue ranch dressing—a nice balance of flavors and textures that’s more interesting than a run-of-the-mill salad.
Orders are brought to the table, although when it’s busy, it’s wise to keep an eye out for wandering servers. Sauce on the Side isn’t just for lunch either; it stays open for dinner six nights a week, a move that speaks to downtown’s increasingly vibrant night life. A number of microbrew options are also available, ideal for the evening crowd.
Oh, and plan on leftovers. The portions are absolutely enormous.
The Bottom Line: Innovative combinations and first-rate dough make for plates of pleasure.
