The elegance of parts of the Washington University campus sometimes leaves us public college kids a little gap-jawed. The new Danforth University Center with its coffered ceiling and fireplace large enough to hold roasting haunches of venison is indeed an elegant semi-public space. Tucked back at the end of a hall is Ibby’s, a restaurant that possesses an interesting menu, a commitment to ecological wisdom, and a license to serve alcoholic beverages.
This bistro-esque spot is named for Elizabeth Gray Danforth, late wife of former chancellor William Danforth. It’s run by Bon Appetit food service management, which provides food service for the entire campus. While lunch is a different-every-day buffet, dinner is a seated affair with tablecloths and servers. The darkish room hosts tables of students, who can use their university dining cards, along with visiting parents and others whose connection to the venue is less apparent, like us. Actually, Ibby’s is open to everyone, which explains why we went to dine and to write.
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Two of the first courses lend themselves to nibbling, the charcuterie plate featuring Wenneman’s sausage from St. Libory, Ill. (one of many local suppliers), along with pickled vegetables and a chutney from the kitchen. The Mediterranean platter is more varied, a lemony hummus, first-rate caponata, marinated olives, feta cheese and plenty of fresh, crisply toasted pita. Spinach salad had a surprisingly tasty spiced maple dressing and a scattering of candied pecans along with some blue cheese, a surprisingly workable group of flavors.
We’re always surprised we don’t see trout on more menus. The fillet served here is perfectly grilled, moist and un-rubbery, alongside some risotto with butternut squash, its vegetal sweetness a good match with the savory freshwater fish. A roasted chicken breast was nice enough but the potato gnocchi alongside were spectacular, so light they nearly hovered above the plate.
Interesting to use short ribs for a sauce for pappardelle, the wide noodle traditionally associated with the rich game sauces of late autumn and early winter. It worked well, too, the fresh pasta moistened with the vinous cooking juices, almost a tomato-free Bolognese sauce. And the chicken burger – well, we never thought we’d attach the word “remarkable” to a chicken burger, but it really was: a fat, juicy patty, not overcooked and brushed with a honey-apple cider glaze. Perched atop was an apple-fennel slaw that was pretty swell, too.
Nadeem’s Banana-Rama Foster Sundae is described as Ibby’s signature dessert, easily enough for two. Or maybe one scholar-athlete. It involves bananas foster, with the fruit and a scoop of vanilla ice cream topped by a tasty brownie, all covered by warm brown-sugar-rum sauce. A first-class dessert. The bread pudding du jour was white chocolate studded with almonds and coconut, a fluffy, creamy concoction charming even those averse to white chocolate. The only disappointment was a sweet potato pound cake that had been overbaked .
The wine list is simple, but the corkage fee is minimal if diners bring something more interesting. Noise levels are reasonable, and while the room seems dark, there’s enough light to read without straining. Since the Danforth Center is next door to the Edison Theatre, it’s good for pre-event dining. We’d suggest reservations. And there’s underground pay parking beneath the building, with an entrance off Forsyth Boulevard.
Fine dining on a college campus? Well, Ibby’s is pretty fine.
Ibby's Danforth University Center, Washington University 6465 Forsyth 314-935-3940 Lunch Tues.-Fri., Dinner Tues.-Sat. Entrees: $12-$24
by Joe and Ann Pollack
