Photography by Justin Barr
After you’ve been inside for weeks, it’s especially nice to get outside—and this year, the nation’s longest stretch of rails-to-trails, the Katy Trail, turns 30. To celebrate, we’ve rounded up the best routes, not-to-miss trailheads, and favorite locales.
While enjoying the Katy Trail, it’s important to stay safe.
Help prevent the spread of COVID-19 by following health agencies’ tips, including social distancing (at least 6 feet from others), not touching anything, and avoiding the trail if you’re feeling sick. Avoid going with a group, and let others know when you’re approaching. Consider visiting the trail’s less-crowded areas. Be prepared for limited access to public restrooms or water fountains. And remember that many of the businesses and services noted in this feature might be temporarily closed or unavailable, so call ahead. With precaution, it’s still possible to stay active, get some fresh air, and experience one of our state’s greatest treasures.
The history of the Katy Trail
In the early 1980s, Ted Jones of Williamsburg, Missouri, went on a bike ride in Wisconsin. The ride happened to be along a rails-to-trails project, and he returned to Missouri determined to replicate the idea along the Missouri-Kansas-Texas (MKT, or more familiarly, Katy) rail system. That railroad ceased local operations in 1986. Through legislation, land grants, and generous donations from Ted and his wife, Pat, the first section of the Katy Trail opened near Rocheport in 1990. Since then, more sections have been added, lengthening the trail to its current 240 miles.
Bikes & gear
What's the best type of bike for the Katy Trail?
1a. Hybrid (Tie)
Pro: Tires of 35–40 mm are ideal for the trail, and the upright positioning is great for sightseeing.
Con: You can’t ride as aggressively.
1b. Recumbent (Tie)
Pro: It’s like riding a lounge chair across Missouri.
Con: Weight, cost, and the trouble of transport are hurdles, and it’s not great on hills.
2. Gravel
Pro: The bike’s ideal for the terrain encountered on 99 percent of the trail.
Con: It can have difficulty with the other 1 percent.
3. Mountain
Pro: The bike’s great for short rides, and fat tires handle rough terrain, such as washout, sand, and rocks.
Con: It’s heavier than other options and requires more effort.
4. Road
Pro: The lighter bike provides less rolling resistance.
Con: Skinny tires don’t handle the terrain well.
6 pieces of gear to pack
What to pack beyond a helmet, water, food, and personal-care items
1. Padded shorts and chamois butter
Long miles mean lots of saddle time.
2. Quick-dry tops
Synthetic materials are essential to wick moisture away.
3. Sun protection/sunglasses
Most of the trail is exposed.
4. Bug spray
You can’t outride a mosquito.
5. Pump, tubes, and a multi-tool
Don’t get stranded along the trail.
6. Bike bell
Yes, it’s essential for good trail etiquette; ring when you want to pass.
Speed racer
What’s the fastest known time for riding the entire 239.3-mile length of the Katy Trail, from Clinton to Machens? According to bikekatytrail.com, four riders—Michael Allison, Andy Chocha, Joe Kleidosty, and Kent Woermann—accomplished the feat in a single day, on November 19, 2016. Their time: 12 hours, 50 minutes, and 28 seconds moving, at an average rate of 18.7 mph.
Where to go (and where to stop)
Photography by Justin Barr
3 Katy trailheads to know
1. Marthasville
Not far from St. Charles, the trail passes through the one of the oldest towns in Missouri. (Daniel Boone and the Lewis and Clark expedition are among its famous passers-through.) After all that pedaling, reward yourself at nearby Philly’s Pizza, lauded for its authentic Italian. Cap it off with a trip to one of the town’s lush vineyards and, if needed, a stay at one of the nearby B&Bs.
2. Rocheport
Situated on the banks of the Missouri River, this quaint town is a gem. Although the population’s only 250, the village is chock-full of attractions: antique shops, art galleries, B&Bs, and the popular Meriwether Café & Bike Shop. Among our other favorite stops: Les Bourgeois Winery’s Blufftop Bistro (where the view of the river’s unrivaled, especially at sunset) and the Rocheport General Store (host to live music on weekends). As a fitting punctuation mark, you leave town on the Katy by passing through a historic arched tunnel.
3. Sedalia
The Katy’s rails-to-trails history is nowhere more apparent than in Sedalia, where the path runs alongside the restored Katy Depot, built in 1896. Today, the station houses exhibit galleries (including a display on the city’s railroad history), a kid-friendly room (yes, with a toy train), and a gift shop (the ideal spot to pick up a Katy Trail souvenir). Pro tip: Consider taking Amtrak, with your bike, to Sedalia, then pedaling east on the trail. Just remember: You’ll need to figure out how to get back to your car if you park it at the Kirkwood station.
5 points of interest to hit along the Katy Trail
1. Sit in the shade.
A quarter-mile off the trail near McBaine, you can find the state’s largest burr oak. Standing a picturesque 90 feet tall, with a trunk circumference of 287 inches, the 400-year-old tree is tied for the largest burr oak in the country.
2. Ride the Rocheport Tunnel.
This oft-photographed tunnel at the west end of Rocheport is more than 120 years old and has long been a favorite landmark along the trail.
3. Stop in at the Katy Depot.
Built in 1896, the historic Katy Depot in Sedalia doubles as the Welcome Center at the west end of the trail. (See the Sedalia Trailhead below for more info.)
4. Hunt ghosts in the state capital.
The Missouri State Penitentiary opened in 1836 and was decommissioned in 2004. Nowadays, guides lead tours through the rooms of the prison, detailing chilling stories of former inmates and the happenings inside the prison walls.
5. Have your mind blown in Augusta.
Artist Sam Stang operates a world-class glassblowing workshop. Call ahead to ensure that his shop is open. 5508 Locust, 636-228-4732.
3 brief detours to take along the Katy Trail
1. Hermann
Located less than three miles off the trail from McKittrick, south on MO-19 and across the bridge, the scenic town’s German-themed charm, popular wineries, and quaint B&Bs draw crowds even when Oktoberfest isn’t in full swing.
Just west of McBaine, the nine-mile trail (named after the Missouri-Kansas-Texas Railroad) rolls through woods and wetlands, providing access to downtown Columbia and the University of Missouri campus.
Just south of the Katy Trail, the state capital is a popular detour. Take an impressive ‘corkscrew’ bike ramp to ride past the state capitol. And should you want to catch a train back to St. Louis, there’s an Amtrak station downtown.
3 places to stay along the Katy Trail
A two-story mansion-turned-cyclists’ hostel, this cozy shelter near Tebbets offers showers, bunk beds, a small kitchen, heat and air conditioning. Be sure to book ahead. Tebbets, 573-496-3986.
This stalwart in Missouri River lore offers live music, a roaring campfire, cold beer, and newly upgraded campgrounds. Book ahead, and pack a tent. Columbia, 573-657-1299.
At the heart of wine country, on the northeast edge of quaint Augusta, owners Randal and Marjorie Oaks’ quaint destination spans Kate’s Coffee (a coffee shop situated in a vintage 1905 house), the Conservatory B&B (with charming architectural details), a conference center, and a kitchen and backyard design studio. Augusta, 314-308-5904.
A step-by-step guide from St. Charles to Augusta
Start at Jean Baptiste Point Dusable Park, on the north edge of St. Charles. Head south, and address any mechanical issues or hunger pangs at the Bike Stop Café, on the west side of the trail as you pass historic downtown St. Charles. From here, it’s approximately 17 miles to the Weldon Spring trailhead, where you’ll find restrooms, water, and a bike-tuning stand. Along the way, hike up the bluffs at the Lewis & Clark Trail in Weldon Spring Conservation Area (just south of the Daniel Boone Bridge) for great views of the Missouri River. In Defiance, grab a bite at the Defiance Roadhouse, a pint at Good News Brewery, or a quick tune-up at Katy Bike Rental. Just past Defiance, perched among the rolling hills, you’ll find Sugar Creek Winery. Roll on to Klondike Park and ride around the onetime quarry. From there, it’s 2 miles to Augusta, where you’ll find a number of wineries (including popular Mount Pleasant). Catch a shuttle back to St. Charles and, finally, unwind with a pint at Schlafly Bankside, where you can raise a toast to the day’s adventures.
One rider’s perspective: My favorite stretch
I pull my car into a parking lot where Pitman Hill Road and Greens Bottom Road meet. I’ve ridden the whole trail, and this is my favorite spot. Here, I’ve watched an eclipse, escaped rainstorms, nearly passed out from heat exhaustion, and rubbernecked as a fire truck drove down the trail so firefighters could remove a fallen tree the width of a sedan. From here, I can access everything that’s great about the Katy Trail. To the east is quaint downtown St. Charles; to the west is the rugged beauty left by the Missouri River’s languid run across our state.
The stretch to Augusta feels remote. Here, I’ve seen deer, bald eagles, a skunk, and more. Soon, the first of many cliff faces lining the trail appears, glowing. I emerge from the woods into Defiance’s open farmland and turn back. I catch glimpses of the Missouri River through the trees, like when a radio scans and stops only for snippets of songs. The river and trail bend toward each other, the trees recede, and I’m suddenly near the bank, as if the radio’s landed on my favorite song. I stop and listen. —Matt Crossman
The gurus
“If you want to learn about what Middle America is, riding the Katy Trail is a good way to see it,” says Jodi Devonshire. She should know. Devonshire and her husband, Tony Caruso, run The Bike Shop Café in St. Charles. Besides serving up cyclist-friendly food, such as the legendary peanut butter balls, the café offers shuttles and group rides, as well as a full bike shop. After a decade in business, there aren’t many Katy questions they can’t answer. “We keep our ear to the ground,” Devonshire says.
Need a lift?
After all that pedaling, you might be ready for a ride home. Shuttles are widely available between stops along the trail but must be booked in advance. As Katy Bike Rental’s Todd White says, “We are not Uber.” Nor is there a set schedule; shuttles are by appointment only. Locally, Katy Bike Rental (636-978-2673) in Defiance offers shuttles for four people for $75. In St. Charles, the Bike Stop Café (636-724-9900) can provide a lift for $65 for two people and $10 for each additional person. During peak season, from September through October, it’s especially imperative to book several days early.
What you'll see along the Katy Trail
Photography by Justin Barr
The great outdoors
“The Katy Trail provides a neat opportunity to see the wide variety of natural landscapes that Missouri has,” says Roxie Campbell, a naturalist at Rock Bridge Memorial State Park for 28 years. While traversing the state’s wide-ranging terrain—from big river bottomlands to the cliffs and hills of the Ozarks to two types of prairie—she’s watched the life cycles of the wildlife (beavers, coyotes, bats, and eagles) and flora and fauna (goldenrod, asters, and trees that were already 150 years old when Lewis and Clark came through).
Flora, fauna & more
You’ll share the trail with trees, such as cottonwoods, sycamores, oaks, maples, hickory, hackberry, sugarberry, and walnut. (Watch out for wheel-wobbling nuts in the fall!) Jewelweed is a handy antidote for poison ivy. Caves in the bluffs house grey bats, which hunt over the river at dusk. Cliff swallows make mud nests, and turtles bask on logs. We’re not the only ones using the trail—it’s a travel corridor for elusive predators, such as bobcats and even mountain lions.
Books to read before you hit the trail
Read up! Cycling the Katy Trail: A Tandem Sojourn Along Missouri’s Katy Trail provides useful data alongside a thoughtful narration of the author’s journey. If you’re thirsty, Missouri Wine Country: St. Charles to Hermann has the details on America’s first wine district. And no trail library is complete without The Complete Katy Trail Guidebook, by Brett Dufur, founder of Mighty Mo Canoe Rental.
Safety
How to stay safe on the Katy Trail
Crossroads Bike Tours owner Luke Harris on riding smart
1. Map out your ride.
“Know how long you want to ride. There isn’t an easy on and off.”
2. Pack snacks.
“If you’re going to do a long day and want to eat lunch on the trail, you might need to bring snacks.”
3. Brace yourself.
“The gravel does not roll like asphalt or concrete, so it takes a greater toll on your body. A 30- or 40-mile day on the gravel will feel as if you’re going 50 or 60 miles per day on the road.”
4. Prepare for a flat.
“Bring a replacement tube and patch.”
5. Be careful on steep sections.
“There are a few sections between Rocheport and Jefferson City. Typically, it’s pretty flat. Even after you fall off the trail, you’re just getting into some brush.”
6. Be cautious.
“Between Booneville and Rocheport is a 3-mile detour that’s hard to ride; it doesn’t have a great shoulder, and you’re going to go up and down a few pretty good-sized hills. Between Defiance and Augusta, you will have to cross Highway 94 at least twice.”
How to ride the Katy Trail with children
A trip with a child is far different from a spin on the Peloton. It requires patience, frequent stops, and an abundance of encouraging words. As you’re plotting a course, keep in mind those little legs have to pedal far more than you, so consider capping the trip at 5 miles. Start at Eco Park, at the northern end of historic downtown St. Charles. For a brief history lesson, stop at the First State Capitol, where state legislators met in the early 1800s. Continue past the Lewis & Clark monument (the statue of Seaman the Newfoundland’s a favorite) and nearby Boat House and Museum (with full-size keelboat and pirogue replicas). After passing beneath I-70, take a break by picking up a pie at Dewey’s Pizza, followed by a treat at U-Swirl Frozen Yogurt. If you and your tots are really feeling adventurous, continue south along the trail to Webster Park, just past Family Arena.
State of the state parks
An avid cyclist, Missouri State Parks director Mike Sutherland has traveled all 240 miles of the Katy Trail by bike, and he’s eager to share his enthusiasm with fellow riders.
On his most memorable experiences riding the trail: “To pick one would be difficult, but it’s always interesting to bump into so many people from so many places. It’s not an exaggeration that, weekly, I will bump into and talk to someone from another country who’s riding on the Katy Trail.”
On his favorite parts of the trail: “Anytime I’m riding along the river is always a really special place. It’s a nice reward as you’re riding to have the river flowing next to you.”
On tips for riders: “Just get out there and do it. It’s great, no matter if you’re a seasoned rider or a beginner.”
Photography by Justin Barr
The man who maintains the magnificence
As executive director of Magnificent Missouri, an organization that promotes the Katy Trail and Missouri River Valley, Ralph Pfremmer is dedicated to the conservation of the trail.
On the cultural impact of the trail: “It’s a corridor every bit as important as, say, Napa Valley. It was the first American Viticultural Area. Napa was No. 2. Now there’s (approximately) 250 areas that are designated American Viticultural Areas.”
On initiatives to preserve the trail and the land around it: “We do a lot of honeysuckle mitigation and invasive species mitigation. Those are some of the things we’ll be working on the next few years.”
On challenges the trail has faced: “Last year was a really hard year for the Katy Trail. One hundred miles of it were damaged by the floods. Keep in mind the railroad was a failure because of the floods—but the demise of the railroad created the benefit of the Katy Trail.”
The Katy Trail's future
Locals account for 70 percent of traffic on the Katy Trail each year. The most popular part is the Confluence section, running from Machens to Matson in St. Charles County. Last year, that section attracted 149,011 visitors, an 11 percent increase from 2018. Trail coordinator Melanie Robinson-Smith believes that attendance will continue to rise.
By the time the Katy Trail hits its next milestone anniversary, its footprint could look much different. There are hopes that the trail will one day connect Clinton with Kansas City and Machens with the confluence of the Missouri and Mississippi rivers. Completing the Rock Island Trail, meanwhile, is a top priority. An interim trail-use agreement signed in December by the Missouri Department of Natural Resources and Ameren Missouri’s Missouri Central Railroad Company was a significant step toward the state’s taking over the 144 miles of the Rock Island Corridor that stretch from Windsor to Beaufort. The agreement requires initial development and management costs be raised before the land is transferred to the state. Once that happens, it will join with the Katy Trail’s 47-mile Rock Island Spur, jutting off from Windsor to Pleasant Hill.
