Devotees have been waiting for almost a year for Uncle Julio’s to set up shop in Frontenac. This Tuesday, March 16, they can finally commiserate over the pandemic-delayed opening while buoyed by a fresh grapefruit margarita and an order of Habanero Honey Bacon Shrimp (pictured below), two of the restaurant’s signature items.
Over the years, Uncle Julio’s has been known for providing an upscale Tex-Mex dining experience, in large part due to its scratch-made kitchen, where sauces, masas, and tortillas are all made in house. An onsite butcher hand-cuts proteins and keeps a close eye on quality. An identical menu is served throughout the 40 units, so patrons can be assured that the quality of the Filet Mignon Fajitas is the same in Durham as it is in Dallas, where the flagship store launched 35 years ago.
Find the best food in St. Louis
Subscribe to the St. Louis Dining In and Dining Out newsletters to stay up-to-date on the local restaurant and culinary scene.
Until the pandemic derailed its growth spurt, the company was opening five to six locations per year. This year, two locations are slated to open: one in Frontenac and another in Lubbock, Texas, both within a few weeks of each other.
Similar design touches are apparent in each location, with subtle differences to avoid being perceived as cookie-cutter establishments. “In some locations, for example, the Mexican mural is located indoors,” says project manager Amanda Gonzalez. “In Frontenac, it’s prominently displayed outside, giving it huge social media implications, whether guests are coming or going.”
The interior includes a mix of rustic Mexican and modern industrial trappings. Furniture, fixtures, and finishes were hand-crafted in Mexico. In the bar, stools are fashioned from Mexican tequila barrels. Chevrons of old wood run the length of the back bar. Hanging lanterns exhibit an Old World charm.
In the restaurant, “the anchor is this massive cabinet that was delivered in three pieces and had to be lowered through the ceiling,” Gonzalez says. Interspersed are contemporary restaurant touches such as white stone veneers and flexible, unobtrusive HVAC ductwork that collapses (and almost disappears) when not in use.
Two side rooms open onto a building-long patio via five roll-up doors, which effectively open up the entire north side of the building. (In the future, the rooms will be available to book for private use.)
For safety and execution reasons, the restaurant, bar, and patio will open at 25 percent capacity. “Plus, it’s our first location in St. Louis and in Missouri, so we want to make sure we knock it out of the park,” says Gonzalez. “Seating capacity will increase as the pandemic lessens and we know we can operate safely at higher levels.”
The menu is an abridged version to start and is the same at lunch and dinner. Six versions of the fajitas (the most popular item on the menu) are available on the inaugural menu, all served with guacamole, sour cream, pico de gallo, sauteed peppers, onions, Mexican rice, and charro-style beans. Positioned at a production station in the main dining room, a máquina tortilladora cranks out airy flour tortillas, the other key component. Watching them cycle through—beginning flat and emerging puffy—is entertaining, no matter one’s age.
The jumbo shrimp dishes are also popular. Consider the Camarones Diablos (pictured below), spicy mesquite grilled shrimp served with Mexican butter and Uncle Julio’s standard fajita fixings. “We peel, devein, and cook anywhere from 100 to 500 jumbo shrimp a day,” says Ron Vasquez, vice president of culinary operations who started as a server at Uncle Julio’s 25 years ago.
Vasquez believes the mesquite-burning grill is another reason for the restaurant’s success. “It’s made of cast iron, with a heavy, masonry-lined lid that both radiates the grill’s heat and enhances the smoke absorption in the proteins,” he says.
Several tableside presentations have been paused during the pandemic. The guacamole is currently prepared in the kitchen in the same molcajete that’s typically used tableside. And a special dessert—a made-from-scratch Chocolate Piñata—is a showstopper when available. “When COVID becomes less of a threat and we can resume tableside service, it will be the first thing we bring back,” Vasquez says.
“It kind of plays into our whole philosophy,” Gonzalez adds. “We want Uncle Julio’s to be a place where people can celebrate an occasion and make memories but also a place to just drop by and enjoy some guacamole and a margarita.”
Not that the margaritas themselves aren’t memorable. The most popular is the Tres Amigos, which contains all three age styles of tequila: silver, reposado, and añejo. The añejo is floated on top inside an inverted, hollowed-out half lime. Guests are encouraged to taste the drink as presented and then submerge the lime for a different experience.
Another popular offering is the El Jefe, made with a jalapeño- and habanero-infused liqueur, which is shaken and served tableside into a salt and pepper rimmed glass. As is typically the case, this jefe means business—the limit is two per person.
The longtime signature drink is The Swirl, a combination of frozen sangria and frozen margarita layered into the same glass. The Grand Swirl uses standard sangria and adds a shot of Grand Marnier; the Platinum Swirl swaps out the Grand Marnier for a topper of 1800 Silver Tequila.
Even though the restaurant is only seating at 25 percent capacity, Gonzalez says house policy allows space for walk-ins, but reservations are always suggested. Patio tables can be requested but not guaranteed.
Uncle Julio’s menu is available for dine-in, to-go, and delivery via third-party carriers. The restaurant has a dedicated takeout entrance and curbside parking spots.
In addition, last October the company created a delivery-only ghost kitchen concept called Savage Burrito. The sub-brand offers a menu of seven burritos (also served in bowls and salads), several sides, churro bites with chocolate sauce, and drinks, including Topo Chico Sparkling Waters and Mexican beers. (As is common with the concept, menu items from the host restaurant are not available through the ghost kitchen’s platform.) Savage Burrito will open this Tuesday, on the same day as Uncle Julio’s.
Editor’s Note, 3/22/21: Savage Burrito is currently on pause at the Frontenac location.
Like so many other restaurants, the restaurant was “adjusting, changing, and evolving” during the past year, Gonzalez says. During that time, the restaurant has worked to fine-tune its offerings before opening the Frontenac location.
“We know our food is good,” Vasquez explains, “but for all restaurants, it comes down to how well can you execute? When we train our staff, in the front and back of house, we take the extra steps necessary to make sure that happens. We want the items to look the same, taste the same, and be served the same every time.”
Gonzalez, who’s helped open 22 Uncle Julio’s locations to date, describes the restaurant as a quality product paired with quality people. “The reason I spend my life on the road, opening up store after store, is that having a great place to work can change your life,” says Gonzalez. “When we’re fully operational, we’ll have 120 employees here. I’m honored to bring that many job opportunities to cities like St. Louis. I love what I do, and I love what we’ve built.”
