1 of 5
The Mama's Pasta Challenge at Mama's "on the Hill." We double-dog dare ya.
2 of 5
Mama's "on the Hill" at 2132 Edwards is the former Mama Campisi's.
3 of 5
The signage at the flagship KimCheese at 13435 Olive in Chesterfield.
4 of 5
Kevin A. Roberts
The KimChee burger... SLM dining critic Dave Lowry describes it as chopped rib-eye, marinated in sesame oil and soy sauce, then grilled and topped with mild, crunchy kimchi. Lowry calls it "a Seoul-food lunch."
5 of 5
Kevin A. Roberts
The pork taco trio at KimCheese. Again, it's Dave Lowry with the call:
"Chunks of pork marinated in one of the great treasures of Korean cookery: soy sauce, sesame seed oil, garlic, green onions, and the invariable Mystery Ingredient. The workers at Kim Cheese were noncommittal when we asked. In some Korean eateries, the sweetener in the marinade is honey, in others, just sugar. Asian pear juice is traditional, though purists argue over whether to add just the juice or the pulp as well. And a lot of places, even in Korea now, swear by Coke or some pineapple juice. Whatever they’re using at Kim Cheese, it lends just a nice, light sweetness to the meat."
Mama’s "on the Hill" has announced a September 22 opening of its second restaurant, located at 758 S. Fourth Street (near Gratiot).
Readers may remember the prior iteration, Mama Campisi's (2132 Edwards, 314-776-3100) which was the descendant of the former Oldani’s, one of several restaurants that laid claim to what is arguably our city’s most acclaimed dish--toasted ravioli (Angelo’s restaurant took credit as well). Mama Campisi’s closed in 2005 due to personal reasons and the current owners—Lance and Andria Ervin--bought the restaurant, renamed it, and reopened it in early 2006.
Rechristened Mama’s "on the Hill," the restaurant was featured on the Oct 23, 2013 premiere of Season 7 of Restaurant Impossible, the TV reality show where host Robert Irvine plays Mr. Fixit with restaurants that indicated they might benefit from some professional consultation.
Despite Irvine’s (some say misguided) efforts, Mama's has pretty much reverted to its original menu. The only Irvine-inspired dish remaining is the Rabbit Bolognese, containing roasted rabbit, fettuccine, spinach, and parmesan cheese in a veal tomato broth.
Mama's is also famous for its Mama’s Pasta Challenge, aka a Chicago-softball sized meatball balanced atop a “Hill” of spaghetti. If you finish the dish, Mama picks the $24.95 tab and throws in a tee-shirt for your dyspepsian efforts.
The new restaurant is located immediately next door to O’Kelley’s at the Ballpark, a restaurant also owned by the Ervin family (and named after Lance’s mother), occupying a room previously used for O'Kelley's overflow.
The Facebook announcement (via Constant Contact) said to expect "a more limited menu but all of the house specialties, and banquet seating for up to 200." In addition, during the first month of operation, Mama will be offering free catering to all downtown businesses....a t-rav lunch may be in order.
==
We’re also happy to report that one of our favorite unsung restaurants, proudly featured in our Cheap Eats cover story in June 2013, a former Dairy Queen transformed into fast-food Korean/Mexican/American fusion restaurant KimCheese (13435 Olive, 314-485-1408), is adding a second location at 10441 Olive (formerly Oberweis Dairy) in Creve Coeur, slated to open in mid- to late October.
Expect the same high-quality, super-fresh but super-inexpensive offerings at the new place, says KimCheese co-owner Sean Moon: a worthy Bee Bim Bap, Korean BBQ tacos, and our favorite, the KimCheese “burger” made with sliced rib-eye steak. The fries are made in house, to order, and the potstickers are must-try's as well. (Spoiler alert: KimCheese is one of SLM’s Best Restaurants for 2014 and will be profiled in the upcoming October issue.)
The new space--triple the size of the old--will allow for more seats and a more casual style of dining, according to Moon, as opposed to the fast food feel of the flagship. Moon says to expect more burgers, fish tacos, and an upgrade in plate presentation.
Don’t let the name confuse or intimidate you: KimCheese is simply a riff on the Korean condiment kimchi. Go there now, or wait for the larger digs to open next month.
