Saturday morning brunch at Frazer's, a Soulard staple

In this ongoing series, Ann Lemons Pollack investigates brunch options in St. Louis—and an occasional breakfast joint for good measure.

Fancy ZIP code? No. Black-tie waiters? No. A welcoming vibe that’s drawn patrons from all over town since it opened? Yes.

Frazer’s began as a little spot doing just lunch and a lot of take-out. (Indeed, the original name was Frazer’s Traveling Brown Bag.) Gradually, the restaurant expanded (several times), and things still are jumping today. If one goes early enough, though, the Saturday brunch is often downright serene, with a low noise level and relaxed servers. 

The bar features stools that once graced Tony’s. It's a nice spot to sip or stay for your entire meal. A French 75—with gin, lemon, and sparkling Spanish wine—seemed like just the thing to start the day elegantly. The coffee is fresh, hot, and flavorful. 

Among the egg Benedict variations is the Cape Cod, which uses a pair of crab cakes in lieu of Canadian bacon. (This is one situation in which expensive lump crabmeat really isn’t necessary, lest the dish approach a price where Dom Perignon is practically mandatory.) Gently seasoned so it doesn’t overwhelm the crab meat, the cakes were fine and the eggs properly poached. The only real glitch was the hollandaise, which fell victim to poorly drained eggs, the water diluting the sauce.

Frittatas (or frittate, if you prefer) are in many ways superior to omelets, holding more filling and requiring less skill to make. Frazer's kitchen flips them, so they resemble an omelet. There are three on offer each week. Roasted mushrooms held forth in their majesty, overshadowing an emmentaler cheese and arugula garnish. High-quality bacon and breakfast potatoes were a plus. Another classic breakfast dish, perfectly round pancakes seemed to have been made in molds or perhaps miniscule skillets.

From the lunch choices, the turkey wrap was being served on this particular visit with chicken, along with avocado, bacon, lettuce, tomato, cheese, and hoisin sauce. This worked extremely well, and, unlike many of its kin, was moist and full of interesting flavor combinations. 

With excellent service and a nice respect for a tableful of chattering brunch-goers, Frazer's is a pleasant spot to ease into a Saturday morning.