Dining / The Lowdown on Pop-Up and Underground Restaurants in St. Louis

The Lowdown on Pop-Up and Underground Restaurants in St. Louis

These dining joints may require you to know the right person—or at least be in the right place at the right time. Whatever the case, an exclusive and ephemeral atmosphere makes dinner taste better.

Demitasse: Chefs Sandy Talley and Marie Jary have held events in vacant restaurants, Missouri vineyards, and an obscure glen in Forest Park, along with monthly gatherings at their home.

Dinner Lab: Now in more than 30 U.S. cities, this pop-up features both local and national chefs. Local events are held sporadically; there’s a yearly fee.

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Dorm Room Dinner: A local chef once boasted he could create a gourmet dinner “using only cooking tools found in a standard dorm room.” The result: monthly guest chef dinners at 33 Wine Shop & Bar.

Rogue Underground: The chef-organizers of the experience-driven dinners encourage diners “to take a leap of faith.” We leaped, and we liked.

Rooster and the Hen: Michael and Tara Gallina left New York’s acclaimed Blue Hill at Stone Barns to move to Michael’s hometown, with the goal of opening a brick-and-mortar. In the meantime, look for pop-up dinners from Rooster and the Hen. UPDATE: Next dinners are on February 1 at Eva’s Attic (upstairs at Juniper) and February 22 at Schlafly Bottleworks.

The Silk Rodeo: Pair the city’s best chefs with an unusual furniture shop, and the result is The Silk Rodeo, a series of dinners held at Hammer & Hand, a store that specializes in treasures and collectibles from the Silk Road.

Soigné: Acclaimed chef Ben Grupe has held dinners in several local venues and plans to conduct several more (e.g., January 29 and 30 at Stellina) before deciding whether to open something more permanent. UPDATE: Also February 13th (Valentine’s Dinner at Stellina) and February 14 at The Inns at St. Albans.

This Is Not a Restaurant: Local and visiting chefs collaborate in a series of dinners held at The B Hive, a 30-seat room at Brennan’s in the Central West End. An organic “digital magazine” is created for each dinner, with print and photographic entries inspired by the event.