Osso Buco of Pork at LoRusso’s

Had Rich LoRusso called the dish by its alternate name, pork shank, chances are, he wouldn’t have sold very many. As it stands, though, the chef’s pork osso buco is available at the 30-year-old LoRusso’s Cucina and the recently opened LoRusso’s on Grand (half a block from the Fox Theatre). The dish is especially popular when diners crave robust entrées. Osso buco means “bone with a hole” in Italian; the marrow adds depth and complexity. The meat is first braised, then slow roasted for several hours before being finished with a fast, hard sauté (adding flavor and color) and seasonal vegetables cooked in pan juices. A steak knife is inserted vertically into the dish, yielding one of the more dramatic presentations in town. lorussos.com.