Photo by George Mahe
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Smoked baby back ribs and taters
Besides being a popular franchise, "Fast and Furious" could also describe the recent growth of Sugarfire Smoke House, the chainlet of locally owned barbecue restaurants, which just committed to its 17th store, six of which have opened since 2019.
The newest Sugarfire will be located at 469-471 N. Kirkwood Road, the former home of Mirage Spa & Recreation (which moved in October) and Kirkwood Pizzeria (which closed in October 2020).
The existing 5,300-square-foot-building will seat 70 guests, as well as an additional 50 seats on a street-facing patio reclaimed from the building footprint. The building immediately to the south (currently occupied by Greentree Dry Cleaners) will be demolished to provide additional parking. Demolition and construction is scheduled to begin soon, with a completion date slated for mid-2022.
Mike Johnson and Charlie and Carolyn Downs first opened Sugarfire in 2012. The Sugarfire Restaurant Group (which now includes restaurateur Ben Hillman) also currently operates The Boathouse in Forest Park and owns sister concepts Chicken Out and Hi-Pointe Drive-In, both of which opened locations in Kirkwood earlier this year (in August and October, respectively). Members of the group also own Sugarfire Pie in Olivette and Cyrano’s in Webster Groves. Sugarfire Smoke House now spans locations in Dallas, Cedar Rapids, and Jacksonville, and the owners are eyeing future locations in South County and Columbia, Missouri.
Courtesy Sugarfire Smoke House
Batter Than Nothing - house burger, bacon, swiss cheese, fried egg, and Sriracha maple syrup, between two griddle cakes
Sugarfire is known for its smoked meats (the smoked turkey is a sleeper), chef-driven side dishes, and insanely creative sandwiches and specials. Since its early days, it's also combined generosity with brilliant marketing campaigns. In 2013, hundreds of "Government Shutdown Sandwich" were given away to furloughed government workers. During an ice storm a few years later, “MO Meltdown” sandwiches were provided free (for three days) to MODOT employees and any other workers clearing local roads. (On a related note, until December 13, any Sugarfire/Hi-Pointe/Chicken Out guest who buys $100 in restaurant-specific gift cards receives an additional $20 gift card, plus a voucher for an additional $10...so for the next two weeks, spend $100 and get $30 back.)
Of course, a restaurant can’t afford to give away a bunch of sandwiches unless it sells a bunch of sandwiches. Not that Sugarfire needs any help, but national competitions have helped them do just that. At the 2018 World Food Championships, Sugarfire’s Cuban Reuben was dubbed “the best sandwich in the world” after receiving top honors by a panel of world-renowned celebrity chefs. And in the 9th annual World Food Championships, held earlier this month, Johnson took home first prize in the hamburger category, with a vegetarian spin on the Cowboy Burger served at Hi-Pointe Drive-In, subbing Impossible meat for its signature ground beef blend.
