Chris Meyer and Mike Miller, founders of Kitchen Kulture and its brick-and-mortar cousin, Kounter Kulture, are in an expansion mode. It was a process that started “long before COVID,” according to Meyer. “However, the pandemic did allow us to think everything through and then change a few things.”
Courtesy Songbird
Proposed signage at 4476 Chouteau
Kitchen Kulture began as a prepared foods–and–catering company that evolved into two stalls at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market and then, in 2016, Kounter Kulture, which was open only at night. “Over the years, the crew developed deep relationships with each other,” Meyer says of her team. “We’ve been looking for a concept where we could all work together a little more consistently.”
The result is Songbird, located at 4476 Chouteau, in a corner building in Forest Park Southeast that formerly housed Amy’s Corner Bakeshop and Joe Boccardi's on Chouteau. The building is owned by developers Amy and Amrit Gill of Restoration STL. The breakfast-and-lunch restaurant is slated to open sometime next month.
The space can seat 30, with some additional seats outside. Due to the vagaries of indoor dining, that won’t be the initial focus, though, says Meyer. She and Miller are excited about introducing a pickup-based model, which will offer half a dozen breakfast items (sandwiches, biscuits, homemade English muffins), the same number of lunch offerings, and pre-made take-home items for later.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Kitchen Kulture's breakfast sandwiches have earned a loyal following. On summer weekends, a line forms at the Tower Grove Farmers’ Market for several versions, including The Classic, a napkins-required two-hander made with a fried farm egg, Newman Farm bacon, cheddar, sea salt, and honey on grilled sourdough bread.
Courtesy Sump Coffee
The big addition is that Songbird’s coffee program is being operated by Scott Carey, who owns Sump Coffee along with Marz Yamaguchi. A 14-foot stainless-steel coffee bar will be a prominent part of the interior design.
Carey, arguably the city's preeminent small batch coffee roaster, opened Sump Coffee at 3700 S. Jefferson in December 2011. In 2015, Sump was named "America's Best Espresso" at Coffee Fest Chicago. In 2017, Carey opened a second store in Nashville (located next to Gerard Craft's second Pastaria).
Carey, who's collaborated with Meyer on other projects, is excited to do something with her on an ongoing basis. "Chris has a loyal customer base, she's a keen observer, and she thinks everything through," he says, "and I'm pretty sure she has an MBA in hospitality. Although these are challenging and uncertain times, I feel they're less so working with her."
Returning the compliment, Meyer says, “We’re excited to be working with Scott. It’s a chance for him to present his amazing products in another setting.”
Carey knows the difficulties in establishing a customer base, especially now, so he plans to offer coffee drink combinations that people can't make at home. "Think espresso plus thoughtful elements," he says, "more like mocktails." He's created fruit shrubs and added them to cold brew; he's made a series of espresso tonics, using the myriad boutique tonics now available; and he's even been tinkering with a lemon zest latte, combining items that traditionally clash with one another. "Chris and I are both taking what we know, comparing notes, and building menus around those thoughts," he says.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Another favorite from Kounter Kulture, bibimbap made with tuna, was featured in the February 2019 issue of SLM.
Until the dining area opens, food and coffee ordering will take place online or in person, “but the front door is not the front door,” says Meyer. As cars pull behind the building, two staffers will assess their needs: one taking orders, the other attending to fulfilling pre-orders, pulling those cars out of the queue.
“It’s similar to how we handle orders at Kounter Kulture,” Meyer says. “Having a greeter is the closest thing to customer interaction that many restaurant owners get these days. When orders are sitting out on a table, there’s zero chance for human interaction or even a smile.”
Before considering delivery, Meyer wants to “get the infrastructure tight first and get the operation fully synced" but admits she is looking forward to the holidays. “We know it won’t be a ‘holiday holiday,’” she says, “but families will be gathering, and we want to be ready for when that happens.”
Courtesy Field to Fire
Already in place is Field to Fire, a rebranding of the prepackaged items that Miller hawked every Saturday at Kitchen Kulture’s booth at the Tower Grove Farmers' Market. In addition to the popular curries, soups, gumbos, and noodle dishes, the line has been expanded and now appears under the new moniker. A rotating selection of Field to Fire items are available at select Schnucks stores (at eight locations to date). “We’re still in the seeing-what-works stage,” says Meyer, “since each store has a different personality with different preferences.” Field to Fire products will also be available at Songbird.
With the Tower Grove Farmers' Market closing soon for the winter, the “timing is right for these kinds of changes,” says Meyer. Kounter Kulture will also close briefly and then become a commissary and venue for future pop-ups. “We love the neighborhood and the space,” says Meyer. “It’s just not big enough to do all the things we want to do.
“It’s a good time to introduce Songbird,” she adds. “The name is uplifting. It makes people happy.”
