The suggestion that a restaurant ought to be a dining destination because of the rice it serves might be considered hyperbole. At the new Zaytoona (104 Triad Center W, O’Fallon, Missouri), however, that’s only by a bit.
That was our thought when a platter of skewered and grilled chicken chunks arrived at the table—along with a sumac-dusted salad—atop a fluffy hillock of basmati rice the bright yellow of a spring daffodil, with a lemony tang. One forkful of that rice was enough to provide a solid recommendation. This place is serious about its cuisine.
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Considerable effort has been put into the restaurant. There are two dining areas, a small space in front and an expansive room in back with a dazzling mural. It’s a family-run operation with a friendly, inviting atmosphere.
Like “Asian cuisine,” the phrase “Mediterranean fare” is practically meaningless—the Mediterranean’s regions and cuisines are simply too far flung and different from one another. Language with a little more precision would refer to Zaytoona’s menu as “Arabic,” but even then its choices are varied enough to make some study necessary.
Starters are mandatory. This is dining that practically demands a long, leisurely meal—here, conversation is as essential as the food. The civilized way to set the scene is to begin with meze. We ordered a platter of hummus and subjected it to forensic examination. The quality of hummus is a reliable way to assay the kitchen. The texture and color, like a creamy buff silk, suggests that it is entirely house made; the restrained bite of tahini adds a critical flavor. It’s excellent, perfect for scooping onto warm pita.
Falafel is equally well rendered. The crust is so fine that it shatters under the teeth. The interior is a bright clover-green that comes from lots of fresh parsley, and the garlic lends itself to the dish rather than overwhelming the taste.
Zaytoona’s stuffed grape leaves could lead to an addiction. That vegetal crunch holds a rice filling that’s chewy but not gummy, with hints of lemon juice and onion. Fuul moudames might be a new experience; it’s a mash of fava beans swirled with cumin, garlic, and olive oil with an earthiness like black-eyed peas.
We’ve whined about the over-shakshuka-ization on the dining scene, but an exception is due here. Tomatoes, onions, and peppers are slow-rendered in garlic into a bubbly, crimson stew. Poached eggs on top make for a dish that’s sweet, tangy, and rich.
Zaytoona’s big, beautifully charred kufta kabobs are a standout among the main courses. The slurry of ground lamb and beef—along with onions, parsley, and a smack of cumin—are squeezed into links and grilled. They arrive on a bed of that splendid rice with a taste of fire and smoke. The meat’s moist; the portion is easily enough for two.
Chicken gets a similar treatment—it’s marinated in yogurt and lemon juice, reducing the breast to juicy tenderness. It’s skewered over an open flame, resulting in delectable, scorched nibbles.
We’re not about to wade into the shawarma-versus-gyro debate that has apparently been boiling in the Middle East since before the beginnings of the Ottoman Empire. Technically, gyro meat is less energetically spiced, while shawarma is liberally whacked with cumin and cardamom. Our palate’s insufficiently tuned for such nuances, but we can say that the gyro platter is deliciously successful. It’s a deconstructed sandwich, with long slabs of the roasted meat spilling over rice, along with pita rounds and a healthy dollop of creamy tzatziki.
If you’re a traditionalist, the classic pita-stuffed gyro and a similarly wrapped shawarma are on the menu—and yes, they can come with the expected side of crinkle-cut fries. It’s fine for a lunch, but Zaytoona’s main dishes are of such quality that on your first visit it’s a good idea to give one a try. Platters of lamb chops and lamb kabobs are grilled with green pepper and onion chunks, with all the cumin-laced spice to make the meat succulent.
Is there a soul so dead it cannot stir at the thought of a sticky, flaky diamond of baklava? That’s why ours withered a bit when we were told they were fresh out. Also disappointing was that the restaurant didn’t have an advertised knafeh, a spectacularly opulent dessert made with crackle-thin leaves of pastry, layered with cheese and topped with a thick sugar syrup. May your luck be better—on our visits, only a cheesecake was available. Some diners at our table drowned their sorrows in a demitasse of Arabic coffee, which tasted as if it were brewed with battery acid and packed with enough caffeine to launch the next Artemis mission. If it’s your thing, this is an authentic version. So too was a Middle Eastern tea with mint. Otherwise, there’s bottled water or canned soda.
There are quite a few Middle Eastern restaurants across St. Louis. Zaytoona has quickly risen to one of the worthwhile ones—especially for that rice.
