Stone Turtle offers modern American fare and whiskey in the heart of Dogtown

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

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Two blocks south of Turtle Park, a new addition in the heart of Dogtown pays homage to the late Bob Cassilly’s beloved concrete critters. Located in the original home of Felix’s Pizza Pub, at the northeast corner of Clayton and Tamm, Stone Turtle Restaurant & Bar offers more polish than its predecessor while maintaining a cozy neighborhood vibe.

The décor is simple and rustic, with brick walls, dim lighting, and wooden tables. There’s not a great deal of art around the 2,500-square-foot space; instead, the patrons add the color and zest.

Though situated in a neighborhood known for its classic bars, Stone Turtle’s primarily a restaurant, with dinner served six nights a week and brunch on Sundays. Still, there’s a Bar Snacks section on the menu, offering pork belly and cashews, spicy roasted chickpeas, California dates, and marinated olives for $3 to $5.

Among the appetizers, a generous portion of fried burrata—crunchy on the outside, creamy on the interior—sat on a base of romesco, slightly tangy and lightly sweet with ripe peppers. A slice of grilled bread rode shotgun, ideal for slathering and swiping the components. The dressing on a not-quite-classic Caesar salad was altogether satisfying. The charcuterie platter was large enough to be an entrée, with prosciutto and andouille, Gruyère and chèvre cheeses, and a small ramekin of pickled Brussels sprouts (which didn’t stand up as well to the brine as, say, cauliflower, resulting in a decent-but-not-exciting sweet/sour taste).

Entrées range from the predictable (a house burger, fish and chips) to the unexpected (a $22 lobster roll). It’s hard to beat a juicy pork chop, and the Stone Turtle’s rendition—with a side of perfectly cooked asparagus—surely fit the bill. We ordered a side of truffle Parmesan fries, but regular fries dusted with Parmesan arrived instead. Gnocchi with mushrooms, spinach, and goat cheese showed some fine flavor combinations. A little Marsala chimed in with the garlic. Only the gnocchi itself fell short, the texture dense and uninteresting. With another pasta (rigatoni, perhaps?), the dish could shine.

The wine list was short but held a serviceable Rioja. The beer menu spans 16 local drafts, as well as canned and bottled options. The owners are also serious about cocktails, with riffs on the traditional, such as an applewood-smoked Old Fashioned. You’ll also find 80-plus whiskey selections.

Our service was generally delightful, provided by an amiable server who knew the menu well. For dessert, we opted for the sparkling blood orange float—blood orange sorbet and Mercat cava, which made for a nicely not-too-sweet dessert, light enough to end a heavy meal. The selection of sweets also includes a New York–style cheesecake and two local options, Serendipity ice cream and a float made with Civil Life American Brown Ale.

Oh, and in case you’re wondering: Yes, there’s turtle pie.

This article was originally published in St. Louis Magazine's May 2018 issue.