Massa’s is a fake. It’s a movie set. In Ellisville. Wander in, and the scene’s obviously contrived. Here’s a table commandeered by actors pretending to be an extended family, including Gramps and some chattering kids. At the bar, a couple of guys waiting for their takeout commiserate about the traffic along Manchester. Mothers at another table are making up a carpool schedule for their grade-schoolers. A fellow strolls in behind us, and the barkeep says, “Chuck!” instead of “Norm!”—clearly blowing his line.
This so-called restaurant specializes in American–Italian cuisine. Baked mostaccioli is layered with a tangy red sauce. A pea-studded cream sauce glistens on tortellini knobs. There aren’t any surprises here. Massa’s isn’t the place for cutting-edge gastronomy. It’s the Italian restaurant that out-of-towners might expect to find on The Hill.
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The most exotic item on the menu: artichoke hearts. They’re great—vinegary with a crispy batter. Even better is a saucer of portobello with shredded crab and shrimp. Ignore the bread that comes with it—the light bread served when you’re seated is a much better accompaniment. A Caesar salad’s nice, though ordinary. The house dressing on the dinner salad is delectable.
Pick a pasta—you can’t go wrong. Lasagna is thick and gooey, with Provel that’s molten in a casserole. Mussels, scallops, and clams are mare generously tutto tossed in buttery linguini. The beloved St. Louisan pasta con broccoli here gets sliced mushrooms thrown into the lustrous cream sauce, which is matched with thick fettuccini for a dish that’s exactly the way you’d want it.
“Dinners” are equally predictable. There’s no alta cucina in sight. A white wine–and–mushroom sauce enlivens grilled beef tenderloins. Baked white fish fillets are crusted in Parmesan. Flour-dusted chicken breasts get the piccata treatment, pan-fried with a lemony butter sauce speckled with capers that’s well prepared and full of flavor. A salmon fillet is broiled and dressed with a dill sauce. Shrimp scampi are grilled with garlicky breadcrumbs. Pizzas? They’re St. Louis–style, as if you needed to ask. Avoid the weekly all-you-can-eat crab leg special—which takes way too long to be served—but embrace the burger served on a garlic-cheese bun.
The portions are substantial. Service is slow; without reservations, you might spend some time at the bar. Either way, this isn’t a place to hurry. It’s a place to enjoy some classic St. Louis Italian fare in a place where real St. Louisans gather.
Though we still think they’re probably actors.
The Bottom Line: This family-run Italian joint is perfect for families, out-of-towners, and anyone else.
Multiple Locations
Ellisville: 15310 Manchester, 636-391-3700
Town & Country: 14312 S. Outer 40, 314-485-8800
Bridgeton: 4120 N. Lindbergh, 314-739-3894
O’Fallon, Missouri: 3072 WingHaven, 636-561-5202
St. Charles: 3761 New Town, 636-925-2961
