If artist Joan Miró composed a salad, it might look like this. Hearts of romaine are strewn with casual poise across white china. A lacy tuile of Parmesan is tilted just so. Half a dozen marinated olives are scattered like fat punctuation marks. When was the last time a salad brought a table to silence?
An excursion through The Grill’s menu is an aesthetic encounter—though the pictures at this exhibition don’t last long. A simple appetizer of three versions of hummus is rendered like a sculpture. Teardrop ramekins of the stuff are neatly arranged on a rectangular plate, with angular points of pita alongside for dipping. Crusty brown tongues of sliced, herbed zucchini poke up from a vase, with a tiny tub of sunflower-yellow pickled lemon emulsion that seems as coordinated in color as it is in taste with the vegetable. Most of the appetizers are proportioned for sharing.
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About a half dozen main courses are accompanied by nicely supporting sides. Given the place’s name, steak tempts. There’s a 12-ounce New York strip and a more reasonably proportioned 8-ounce filet. The latter arrives sizzling on a rocket-hot salt block that adds much to the presentation. Pork en papillote is successful in alliteration, less so in execution; the flavor is outstanding, but the cut lacks enough fat to render down and keep the meat juicy. A mild barbecue glaze over half a chicken adds subtle flavor to the bird, and a side of mushrooms arrives alongside. When we caught the aroma of a lemon- and fennel-glazed grouper bound for another table, we briefly considered asking, “Are you gonna eat all that?” The single pasta was redolent of a garlic-rich pesto sauce, the trumpets of campanelle tangled with fresh basil, sun-dried tomatoes, and shreds of arugula.
Wines are listed on an iPad—a bit futuristic for those who remember dial-up Internet—but the selection is classic. A 2003 Château Lanessan Haut-Médoc washes down the steak wonderfully, while the pesto-spiked pasta adores the 2011 S.A. Prum Essence Riesling. For dessert, go with the baked Alaska on a special occasion; otherwise, consider the profiteroles, which reminded us that a meal’s ending should be as memorable as every other course.
The Grill is arguably among the most formal of restaurants across the St. Louis metropolitan region. Dark oak paneling, gentle lighting, and padded chairs lend it a formality that never veers into the starchy. A superb staff only enhances the atmosphere. The maître d’hôtel may be the best in town. He oversees a staff that’s pleasant and professional. They are, in a real way, a part of the artistic exhibition at The Grill.
The Bottom Line: A posh atmosphere provides the ideal setting for matters of dining elegance.
The Grill
The Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis
100 Carondelet Plaza, Clayton
314-863-6300
Average Main Course: $35
