Pizza returns to Midtown with Hugo's Pizzeria
Restaurateurs Dave and Kara Bailey draw inspiration from their son, the eatery's namesake.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Pizza is back in the space that once housed The Good Pie, a stone’s throw from restaurateurs Dave and Kara Bailey’s Small Batch in Midtown. Named for their son, Hugo’s Pizzeria looks deceptively simple. Well-designed lighting and clean lines showcase the graphics and art, including a Mel Meyer piece by the front door and a striking grouping high above the bar.
The menu’s not long, but it shows much thought. The Florence salad—greens, olives, marinated plum tomatoes, and local prosciutto—is set off by paper-thin cross-sections of pepperoncini. The light dressing seems at first to need salt, but the shreds of pepper make salt superfluous. There’s even a salad with broccolini. Sautéed Brussels sprouts flaunt bits of bacon and a shower of Asiago. Both the salads and the sprouts are generously served—relatively virtuous options before a headlong dive into pizza pleasures.
The Roman-style crust is fairly thin, with wide margins. Baked in a gas-fired deck oven, these pies aren't done until they're blistered—good news for those who might shy away from wood-burning ovens.
And what to put on that pizza? At Hugo’s, pepperoni is nearly mandatory. The real question is “What type of pepperoni?” There are five varieties, all made in house: regular, spicy, Buffalo chicken, duck, and a vegan version. The duck pepperoni was particularly good, generously strewn over the pie. Though the mildly sweet house sauce might give some traditionalists pause, it worked well with the pepperoni.
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Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
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Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
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Photo by Kevin A. Roberts
Other varieties built on the house sauce include the standard cheese and sausage and such specialty pies as the Lux (with roasted peppers, mushrooms, pepperoni, meatballs, and mozzarella) and the Farm Boy (with a farm egg and house bacon).
The White pizza bears a light layer of béchamel sauce, lemon zest, and chives, plus a healthy sprinkling of prosciutto. Vegetarians will be happy to discover several options topped with garlic oil and fresh ingredients. Gluten-free and vegan cheese are available at no charge as well.
There are also options for tykes—no surprise for a place named for a youngster. The $7 Hugo’s Fav personal pan pizza is loaded with cheese, and there’s a mini meatball sub with fries.
During our visit, only one dessert was available, the Blondie Supreme Royale. The half-baked dessert, hot from the oven and topped with a scoop of vanilla ice cream and a little caramel sauce, is ideal for sharing.
More than 20 beers, with a strong showing of local labels, are available; so, too, is a short but thoughtful list of spritzers, cocktails, and wines.
And, yes, the pleasant servers have been fully briefed on the beverages and food: carefully crafted pizza that’s well worth trying.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
