After a two-year hiatus, one of the city’s most talented and passionate pizzaiolos is back in the pizza business. Scott Sandler, who founded two successful vegetarian pizzerias in the past decade, Pizzeoli and Pizza Head, will open Pizza Via (4501 Maryland) in a corner space that’s been home to several other pizzerias. A soft opening is planned for early March, followed by a short break and then a more official opening in early April. Here’s what to know before you go.
THE MENU
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Unlike Sandler’s prior pizzerias, which sold 20-inch pies (whole and by the slice), Pizza Via will offer 14-inch whole pies, no slices, and meat toppings will be available. “The two places I started have a heavy vegan and vegetarian influence,” he says “Both were—and still are—home runs. Honestly, I’m not sure there’s room for a third.
“At the end of the day,” he adds, “me not selling pepperoni and sausage is not convincing anyone to become a vegetarian, so why not just give people what they want?”
The crust will be different than his prior iterations as well, he says, “different than you’ve eaten in St. Louis, more North Italian than anything else,” referring to a crust that’s thinner and crispier than Neapolitan-style. “The dough will ferment for three days, and then be stretched and rolled, instead of tossed,” he says, “but the shell prep can all be done pre-service or even the day before, which saves an amazing amount of time.”
The wood-burning oven that Sandler inherited is far larger than its Italian counterparts and cooks better at lower temperatures, Sandler explains. “It’s not that this oven can’t cook at 900 degrees, but it takes a long time—like a few days and a ton of wood—to get it there and keep it going.” Sandler says cooking in a 600- to 650-degree wood oven translates to a longer bake and a crispier crust. “Plus, the oven can be fired up for service in an hour and a half,” he says.
A crispier style crust also reheats better the next day, Sandler adds, which is important because “it’s when a lot of pizza gets eaten.” Pizzas will be priced from $16 (for a basic tomato pie) to $25 (for a generously topped one).
Pizza Via will not serve alcohol initially, but a beer and wine license may follow.
THE ATMOSPHERE
The décor, which was previously bathed in several shades of red, has been painted black, and the lighting fixtures have been changed to something more appropriate for the neighborhood, contributing to a more relaxed vibe.
“Right now, it’s a work in progress,” Sandler says. “It’s still creating itself.” He adds that the style of music will “continue to be influenced by what the employees like, but I have to like it, too.”
The 1,600-square-foot space will seat 24 seats inside and 12 outside. “If you add in pickup volume, that’s all I want and need,” Sandler says. “The jury is still out on delivery. Time will tell.” The most efficient and easiest way to service dine-in guests is via a fast-casual service model, he adds, using runners to deliver food and drinks.
THE BACKSTORY
The corner of Maryland Ave and Taylor has seen three pizzerias come and go in the past decade. Pizzeria Mia closed up shop in November 2016, after a two-and-a-half-year run, leaving its custom built, multi-ton, concrete-walled, wood-fired pizza to the next tenant, Cork n’ Slice Woodfire Bistro, which was one of the swankiest pizzerias to grace the area. Nine months later, in late 2018, it closed. Café Ciao eventually opened in the space but closed after just over four months.
Despite the location’s history, Sandler feels confident that his experience, expertise, reputation, and few barriers to entry will help move the needle in a positive direction. “The CWE really is a pizza desert compared to other parts of the city,” he says.
As for his decision to get back in the business? “I felt like I never left,” Sandler says. “I was on the fringes—doing consulting, trying to help operators—but I wasn’t comfortable where I was. I was just happier opening my own door and making pizzas than telling other people how to do it.”
