Editor’s note: Shortly after opening, in order to minimize confusion with another U.S. restaurant, the name was changed from Mad Mex STL to Mad Mexica.
There’s a new culinary concept at Mad Art Gallery in Soulard: Mad Mexica (2727 S. 12th).
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After closing Capitalist Pig in 2018, owner Ron Buechele decided to switch gears, offering a modern take on Mexican street food. Buechele always appreciated Mexican cuisine, but the heightened connection came when he met his biological father, in 2015 and learned about the paternal side of his Michoacán heritage, including the food culture. (Sadly, the reunion would be brief. “He had stage four pancreatic cancer,” says Buechele. “He wanted to connect before he died. We got to hang out for two years.”)
The new pop-up puts an emphasis on a birria, with a rotating roster of meats. “Right now, we have lamb and beef,” says Buechele. “Next week, we’ll be using goat, which is more traditional.” The slow-cooked protein is served with many of the dishes, including tacos, quesadillas, cheese fries…and ramen.
“There’s a huge Asian-Mexican food culture,” explains Buechele. “During the Chinese Exclusion Act of 1860, when Chinese railroad workers were living in Mexico, they established Chinese restaurants. They didn’t have access to everything they had back home, so they started using what was available in the area. This is my spin on it.” The broth is made from dashi miso white, ginger, and consommé. It’s served with traditional taco toppings, such as red onion, cilantro, lime, and pickled ginger.
As for the atmosphere? As many St. Louisans already know, Mad Art Gallery is unlike any other location in St. Louis. Situated across the street from the Anheuser-Busch Brewery, the catering and event space is housed in a former police station built in the 1930s. The space is small and intimate. The lighting is dramatic, with overhead LEDs casting weighty shadows, perfect conditions for a quick photo. A message on the wall-mounted menu proclaims “FREE BEER.” Rich shades of red and black wrap around the dining room, making the room warm and welcoming—after you get over the jail cells along the wall. Some of the dining tables are even situated in the pens.
The kitchen is open from 11 a.m.–3 p.m. Wednesday through Saturday, with morning hours planned for the future. “Maybe in a month or so, I’ll be able to start doing brunch,” says Buechele. During evenings, the restaurant furnishings literally roll away as the former hoosegow transforms back into a catering and event space. “We do so many private events in the evening that I would constantly be changing dinner hours,” says Buechele. “I do think we’ll have some specialized dinner events in the future.”
Over time, the venue’s restaurant concepts have changed and evolved, typically hinging on one major factor: “If it’s not fun anymore,” says Buechele. “I did barbecue with Capitalist Pig for six years, and then I decided I wanted to do something else for a while. There are so many different things you can do. It’s just fun to push yourself and learn new things.”
