Hot to Tot: The Everything Tater Tot at The Lucky Accomplice

This article appeared in the January 2021 issue of St. Louis Magazine.

Ever since Tater Tots rolled onto the scene, in the ’50s, they’ve been high on the list of kids’ favorite foods. Those kids now have grandkids, and nothing has changed: Tots’ appeal has steadily grown. So when we heard that chef Logan Ely had married the Tater Tot and an everything bagel, creating the Everything Tater Tot, we felt a signature dish coming on. At The Lucky Accomplice, the item has quickly become the No. 1 seller. The “obnoxiously large” toasted raviolo is a close second. Both are “recognizable, beautiful, hilarious, and tasty” dishes that Ely says capture the playful spirit of the new Fox Park restaurant. The towering dish begins with a deep-fried disk of grated russet potatoes. It’s then topped with ingredients that the chef likes to find on an everything bagel: a top-and-bottom schmear of whipped cream cheese, shaved house-cured “green-listed” salmon, smoked trout roe, and a mix of toasted black and white sesame seeds, poppy seeds, dehydrated onion and garlic, fennel seed, dried capers, pickled shallots, chives, and chervil. Calling it the Beyond Everything Tater Tot would have been just as fitting.