There should be a shrine to the Huancaina—the “women of Huancaya”—who, a century past, fed Peruvian railway workers on the mountain line between Lima and Huancaya and who is credited with concocting the spicy, garlicky, aioli-like huancaina. Maybe St. Charles’ new Jalea is something like that—a tribute to this delectable sauce and to a whole lot more of Peru’s cuisine.
The array of Peruvian cuisine—puckery, fresh ceviche, marinated beef stir-frys, cancha “popcorn,” the iconic Inca Kola—is authentic. The flavors and presentations are exquisite. Jalea is one of the best new restaurants in the area.
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First, there is that huancaina sauce, an orange-golden slurry of garlic, queso fresco, and chiles ladled over sliced boiled potatoes and eggs that will forever alter your image of “potato salad.” The same sauce decorates a happy starter of thick slabs of battered, fried yuca.
Chinese immigrants to Peru brought stir-frys with them; one result is lomo saltado. Jalea’s version uses ribeye, sliced thin and tossed in a skillet with chiles, red onions, and tomato. The ribeye is juicy and tender. The vegetables are just slightly softened without compromising their texture and taste. A splash of vinegar and soy sauce are stirred with the meat’s juices for the saltado dressing. The concept’s Chinese; the execution and flavors are pure South American. This wonderful dish is what “fusion,” a word that’s often overused, should look and taste like.
Mounds of rice, tinged with garlic, accompany cubes of pork belly braised in carapulcra, a rich stew fortified with sun-dried potatoes and bacon. The luxurious, succulent pork fat and thick gravy make for a substantial feast. The arroz sparkles with cilantro in the classic arroz con pollo mixture with chicken, which is braised in beer and herbs.
If you’ve never dined in one of those New England roadside shacks featuring extravagant piles of fried seafood, then your life’s dining trolley has missed an important stop. But you can get a taste of what they’re like with the Jalea’s jaleas. It’s amazing. A tub overflows with plump fried shrimp, rings of squid, and hefty fillets of flounder, along with yuca fries and plantain chips. The crunchy-crisp texture and moist fish is a celebration of fried seafood that’s unmatched anywhere locally.
Given the portion of ceviche that arrived, we assumed that carretillero (“wheelbarrow driver”) was a reference to the device necessary to haul the dish to the table. It turns out to be the name of a specialty of peddlers who offer ceviche from carts wheeled through towns or on beaches. A more modest ceviche is also on the menu, but, hey, life’s short. This super-size version was a bounty of flounder and small, sweet sea scallops. Ceviche connoisseurs will notice the fish is sliced, as it is in northern Peru, rather than cubed the way it’s preferred in Lima. The bigger slices nicely highlight the contrast in textures between the fish and scallops. Fresno pepper rings—a fragrant, oily substitute for the traditional aji limo peppers—and a thimble of mashed garlic are stirred with fresh lime juice to make the famous “tiger’s milk” that “cooks” the fish with its acid. Chunks of soft sweet potato and fried plantains are tossed in, along with cilantro and red onions. More of those crispy, fried squid rings are served on the side. And as with nearly every other dish here, there are nibbles of choclo, puffy Peruvian corn kernels.
Among the modest beer and wine selection, go with Peru’s Cusquena lager. It’s the natural accompaniment to cancha, the toasted corn nuts that appear on your table as soon as you sit down. Inca Kola has a fanatical fan base for those whose tastes run to cream soda. But really, try one of Popdom’s craziest concoctions, the purple chica morada. Made from corn, it’s just mildly sweet and quite habit forming.
Jalea occupies a lovely space that was built in 1909 and originally housed a coal and ice company. The original windows still look out on old St. Charles. Inside, it’s cool, intimate, and attractive. Try to find an ugly restaurant anywhere on historic Main Street—it’s a testament to the talented architectural sensibilities of buildings of another era. They continue to be beautiful, functional, and inviting, even when repurposed as here, hosting a magnificent take on the foods of Peru.
