Guerrilla Street Food opens in the Delmar Loop

The popular fast-casual Filipino joint debuts a third location.

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Good news: The 800-pound Guerrilla is coming to the Loop. 

That is, next Tuesday, March 13, when Guerrilla Street Food opens a third location at 6120 Delmar, bringing with it many of the Filipino favorites it is known for, and a whole lot more besides.

Just across the street from Delmar Hall and right next door to Tavolo V, this fast-casual location will be headed by chef de cuisine Heidi Hamamura, formerly of Olio and Elaia, who will craft her own version of Filipino food.

“We want each of our locations to have a different twist,” says co-owner and executive chef Brian Hardesty. “There are 7,107 islands in the Philippines, and the cuisine changes from region to region. We want our restaurants to speak to that culinary diversity.”

That means Hamamura (who is the daughter of local sushi chef Naomi Hamamura) will be sprinkling in dishes like Kinilaw, a heart-stopping and beautiful arrangement of diver scallops, watermelon radish, and green mango (pictured at right); and skewers with chicken skins (pictured below), light as tempura, served with ginger vinegar and annatto oil. Pancit, at this location, is udon noodles sautéed with squid balls, green cabbage and soy sauce.

“Heidi has an excellent pedigree and brings a level of refinement to the menu,” says Hardesty’s partner Joel Crespo, a first generation Filipino-American. “We are very excited about what she will bring.”

Indeed, Hamamura seems thrilled by the menu and the hand she has had in crafting it. She is particularly pleased with the Hamanado, which is local, skin-on pork belly, marinated and braised, and served with tart cherry relish. Although less thrilled initially by Hardesty’s request to include Dinuguan (pork blood stew), she has tweaked the recipe to her liking and now finds it delicious. She describes it as a meaty, chocolate stew, fragrant with garlic and ginger.

But die-hard GSF fans, don’t be alarmed; the Flying Pig remains, as does the Beef Mechado, the aforementioned Guerrilla, and other old school favorites.

Crespo, meanwhile, is equally excited about the location of his new restaurant. In fact, he says The Loop was at the top of their list when they were looking to open their first location in 2015, but there wasn’t a spot available. “Brian and I always thought of The Loop as the pinnacle of cool—cool shows, cool shops, cool food.” And the proximity to Washington University is also a plus. “We definitely have a loyal following,” he says, referring to the early days of the Guerrilla Street Food truck when it was still allowed to be on campus.

Indeed, the interior of the Delmar location, designed by Hardesty’s brother, Greg, is fittingly cool. Washed in characteristic gray and splashed with its ginormous iconic logo, the place feels smooth, mod, appropriately urban.

Crespo points out the details that weave together his and Hardesty’s history: the skateboard lamps and wall of comic book covers and photographs that speak to the friends’ shared interests, the things that brought them together in the first place.

Most striking, though, is the large black stretched canvas and what looks like a piece of frenzied yellow graffiti. Actually, Crespo explains, it’s Baybayin, ancient Filipino script by Filipino artist Kristian Kabuay, which, roughly translated, means ‘Guerrilla, food of the streets.’

Guerrilla Street Food will seat 48 inside, and, once the weather cooperates, 30 on the patio. In time, it will serve alcohol.

Hours are Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to midnight; Sunday, 11 a.m to 10 p.m.

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