The long-awaited Bonito Bar officially opened its doors last weekend alongside Frida’s, which had been closed for renovations since last spring. Bonito Bar is located in a former alterations shop space between Frida’s and Diego’s Cantina along North and South Avenue, just north of Delmar in University City. Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff, who also own the “flexitarian gastropub” Station No. 3 in Benton Park (which opened last spring), own all three businesses. Here’s what to know before you go.
The Atmosphere
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At Frida’s, as patrons cross the threshold and catch a glimpse of Bonito Bar for the first time, many have a similar, stunned reaction. Gilded chandeliers hang above and inside the bar. The wall color is alluring, one of those magical shades that changes radically depending on the time of day, ranging from a deep Caribbean aqua-blue to black. (The exact shade: Sherwin-Williams Cascade.) The 10-seat bar is faced with a sea-colored mix of fish scale tiles. The smoky gray epoxy floor might is enhanced by the reflective tiles. Take it all in from the small grouping of upholstered chairs, surrounded by potted palms.
The most dramatic aspect of Bonito Bar—a 14-foot vaulted ceiling finished in gold leaf—can be seen from the street and upon entry but cannot be appreciated until seated directly under it. “Rick wanted to create an arched ceiling over the bar,” Natasha says, “we decided to finish it in gold leaf—OK, real imitation gold leaf—and hang clear birds from it and one colored bird, Bonito.” (Bonito was the pet parrot of artists Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera, those restaurants’ namesakes.) Illuminated by three black shaded hanging lamps, the detail sets the stage for the rest of the whimsical design throughout the 20-seat space.
The animal theme is repeated in dramatic fashion in the hallway, in the bathrooms, on the walls, with gilded sculptures (another one of Natasha’s self-taught, DIY projects) placed inside estate-sale frames. Look around to see gilded mirrors, monkeys, and where-did-they-find-that? items (“A lot of what you see came from estate sales,” Kwan admits, “but I hope it’s hard to tell exactly what.”)
As Bonito Bar was being built, Kwan also applied the refresh brush to the Frida’s space, reupholstering the banquettes, refinishing the floors, and changing up the artwork. “The same menu is served in both spaces, so they should feel the same age,” Kwan reasons.
The Menu
Frida’s food menu has shifted gears from vegan to pescatarian, where some fish is included in the menu mix, but, in Frida’s case, “not a lot,” says Kwan. “It’s been my experience that pescatarians don’t eat a lot of seafood,” she says, “and our menu reflects that. A few of Frida’s traditional salads can now be ordered with or without salmon or shrimp as add-ins, for example.”
Kwan describes the new menu as “mostly dairy- and gluten-free pescatarian. The only dairy on the menu is the cheese, and vegan substitutes are available for that,” she says.
Frida’s refresh menu brings back several favorites, such as hummus and the signature spring rolls. New to the menu are chicken satay; a split, grilled artichoke; seared ahi tuna salad; baked goat cheese with crimini mushrooms; and a tomato carpaccio with balsamic infused burrata, basil, and onion ash. Under the Handhelds section are several popular carryovers: the Frida Burger, Black Bean Burger, The Taco, as well as a new item, a 6-ounce salmon burger on a brioche bun.
More hearty fare includes pan-roasted salmon filets (prepared with three different sets of accompaniments and sauces) and the intriguing “vegan filet mignon,” with house-made seitan, served with a port wine reduction and sided with accoutrements that accompany the traditional version.
Over a decade, Frida’s footprint had expanded twice and added a patio but never expanded the kitchen, Kwan told SLM last spring, so it was time for “a big-girl kitchen,” which became part of the Bonito Bar project. The expansion was more ‘big picture’ than that, though.
“Although Frida’s sold alcohol, we needed the margins that you only get with a legit bar and a bar program,” Kwan says, “which now, ironically, includes low-ABV cocktails and full nonalcoholic menu, which, for a multitude of reasons, is now the hot category. Plus, we believe that Bonito Bar can attract new customers to Frida’s and vice-versa.”
The beverage menu is broken down into sections: In addition to bottled beer and wines by the bottle or glass, there are five categories of cocktails: mocktails, signature cocktails, house cocktails, session cocktails (with a lower ABV), and classics. There are 20 cocktail options in all, made by hand using fresh juices where appropriate, a program spearheaded by general manager Jackson Crowder.
“Frida’s had a robust drink menu that many people didn’t know about,” Kwan says. “At Bonito Bar, more people will.”
Frida’s is open 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m. Tuesday–Saturday. Bonito Bar is open 4–10 p.m. Tuesday–Thursday and 4–midnight Friday and Saturday. Tables at Frida’s may be reserved here. Bonito Bar is first come, first served.
