South City has a new spot that serves flavorful, fresh kabobs cooked on giant skewers: Ehsani’s Hot Kabobs (4561 Gravois) recently opened in the space formerly occupied by Mariscos El Gato, in the Bevo Mill neighborhood. Here’s what to know before you go.
The Menu
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Kebobs are made fresh on the grill. “The Halal meat we use here is always fresh, never frozen,” says owner Hadi Ehsani, who breaks down fresh whole lambs himself for the Sheeshlik marinated lamb chop kebobs, KhoshBash kabobs of boneless marinated backstrap, and Koobideh kabobs (a mix of minced lamb and beef kabobs). Ehsani uses a whole beef tenderloin for Barg and Chenge kabobs, utilizing different spices and marinades. The restaurant also serves a slew of chicken kabobs, including a half-chicken skewer that’s roasted and garnished with saffron, and the iconic Joojeh kabob, which is marinated and garnished with saffron. “We can put saffron on any kabob,” Ehsani says.
The kebobs are served as single skewers, which Ehsani has specially made. The sword-like implements are just over 2 feet long. “For really big events, we have some much longer skewers,” he says, spreading his arms to about 4 feet.
“We cook over an open fire, probably 500 to 600 degrees,” he says. “Kabobs are best served hot.” When he and his crew slap the kabob skewers over the glowing coals, the cooks move with near-balletic grace and efficiency, roasting meats and Roma tomatoes to perfection. (Note: Because everything is fresh, consider arriving early for dinner—by 8 p.m. the kabob choices may be limited.)
Salads and some side dishes elevate the experience and complement the fragrant kebobs. Among the accompanying dishes: magenta-bright pickled red cabbage, julienned onion salad with fresh cilantro, roasted tomatoes served with a lovely jasmine rice topped with saffron. Fresh flatbread and fragrant basmati rice are also standards, along with various pickles and stews. A lamb stew arrived at the table fresh and hot, for instance, made with split yellow peas in a flavorful gravy and topped with crispy potato sticks.
Desserts include a must-have, house-made saffron ice cream (made with heavy cream and pistachios), as well as house yogurt, baklava, and a specialty ice cream drink made by blending saffron ice cream with carrot juice. (At the moment, no alcohol is served.)
The Atmosphere
The restaurant sits in a decorative brick building along a busy stretch of Gravois, with a modest sign announcing its presence. (Note: Nearby parking is limited.) Customers enter by passing the elaborate bar, which dates back well over a century and features Black Forest carvings, as well as a German inscription. The walls are painted with murals of sea creatures, mermaids, and a deep-sea diver, a remnant of the previous tenant, which served Mexican seafood. Ehsani can sometimes be seen making kabob skewers at the refrigerated counter in the rear of the dining room. The door to the kitchen, with its art deco porthole, is often open.
The cadence of different languages, including Farsi, and the presence of children creates a vibrant atmosphere. “I love this place,” says one patron. “It’s really fresh food. I like the people and the family. Their customer service is the best.” For instance, Ehsani’s twin sons, Hamza and Hadi, help customers navigate the extensive menu and answer questions.
The Backstory
Ehsani, who was born in Iran, learned to cook kabobs years ago while working as a tailor in Turkey. “My shop was next door to a kabob house,” he recalls. “I ate lunch there, and sometimes I’d help out the owner.”
After immigrating to St. Louis in 2016, Ehsani made fast friends, who often called on him to do the cooking at get-togethers. They also encouraged him to start his own restaurant, which opened in March.
“The business we’re doing now, at three months, is where I thought we would be in a year,” he says.
