Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Utah Station, when it opened in August of 2019
The owners of Frida’s and Diego’s, the restaurants located next door to each other in University City, signed a lease this week for the former Utah Station space in Benton Park. (SLM announced Utah Station's closure a month ago.)
The new endeavor is the third restaurant from Natasha Kwan and Rick Roloff, hence the name: Station No. 3. It won’t serve super-healthy vegan (like Frida’s), nor Latin American-inspired street food (like Diego’s), but it’s fair to say that there will be connections to both.
When Utah Station opened two years ago, the culinary focus was legitimately unique: Longtime vegan chef Chris Bertke aimed to introduce a menu consisting of vegan riffs on popular fast food and comfort-food dishes. The Big Mak was popular. The Crack Tacos (made with “veef”) mimicked the Jack in the Box staple. And some said the vegan T-ravs were better than many meat-based versions in town. Vegans and carnivores alike lauded Utah Station’s food.
Taking the “if it ain’t broke” approach and realizing the existence of a built-in audience, Kwan says Station No. 3's menu won't stray far from the original formula.
Courtesy Natasha Kwan
Nachos topped with vegan “meat” will be offered. The biggest seller at Utah Station was the burger; Kwan is developing another “meatier-tasting meat substitute” for it. Loaded potato skins will be a menu option. An iteration of Frito pie will be served in a boat. And there will be a panko-topped cauliflower version of mac and cheese.
Look for a house-made smoked vegan turkey and cheese served on a vegan croissant, as well as a vegan interpretation of the “chopped cheese,” a Philly cheesesteak-like sandwich popular in New York and New Jersey that's made with chopped beef, gooey cheese, caramelized onions, tomatoes, and shredded lettuce on a toasted hoagie. “It's an absolute mess to eat,” Kwan says, “and absolutely delicious.”
Courtesy Diego's
Costra de Camaron, a classic grilled cheese taco with red pepper, seasoned shrimp, creamy jalapeño salsa, onion, cilantro, and tomato
Similar to Diego’s, there will be limited chicken and fish items available. “Running a 100 percent vegan restaurant is getting harder and harder,” Kwan says, “because often there’s someone in the dining group who vetoes it. Remember that when Utah Station opened, it billed itself as ‘90 percent vegan.’ We opened Diego’s with flexitarian options, too. That same model has worked for us there.” In that vein, Diego’s now-famous shrimp, chicken, or veggie “costra” tacos (which include a layer of fried cheese on the tortilla shell) will likely garner menu space as well.
Pizza was not a big seller at Utah Station, nor will it be at Station No. 3. The large pizza oven is being replaced with more appropriate equipment, and an outside cooler is being added to make the small kitchen more efficient and allow for more fresh vegetables (including salads), which is important to Kwan. “We plan to have fun with the menu, like they did at Utah Station, but still make it as healthy as possible,” Kwan says. So look for Frida's fresh juices, juice-based cocktails, and signature sodas on the beverage menu, along with a few of the popular margaritas from Diego's.
Photo by George Mahe
A marble bartop is being added, a half-wall will separate the bar from the dining area, and a dedicated space is being carved out for to-go orders. Tables and signage are being built by Next Level Metal, crafters of the backlit steel signature at Diego’s.
Kwan hopes to open the doors in October. “What [developer and building owner] Kevin [King] did with the building is amazing,” Kwan says. “We’re keeping the same feel but will add some art and design details here and there.”
For his part, King couldn’t be happier and appreciates that “Natasha plans on sailing this ship in the same direction.”
