Is it ever appropriate to eat pizza with a knife and fork? —Hailey L., St. Louis
The answer depends on both the location and situation. In Italy? A qualified yes. At a kid’s birthday party? No. In the Bronx? Fuggedaboutit.
Let’s first draw a distinction between cutting a pizza with a knife and fork and actually eating a slice. In Italy, arguably the birthplace of pizza, pies are served uncut, so using a knife and fork to perform triangular cuts is mandatory. That said, some Italians continue to use their utensils, while others do not.
Some people initiate the eating process by using a knife and fork (particularly on the hot and unwieldy inner parts) and then resort to hands when the piece becomes stable and manageable.
In this country, pizza etiquette is all across the board. Tykes begin eating pizza with their hands, likely establishing the habit for later in life. Some adults use only their hands (like me), while others start with utensils and revert to hands (like my wife). Cumbersome and/or messy pizzas, such as deep-dish pies, require utensils. Traditional New York-style slices, however, never do, often being consumed on the run by folding the slice in half.
The art of pizza consumption has been compared to a Kenny Rogers lyric: “You’ve got to know when to hold ‘em, know when to fold ‘em.” One study even suggests that the way you eat pizza can provide clues about your personality type. Miss Manners suggests that “while hands are fine, dignity also matters.” As does common sense: If you’re lunching with your boss and she or he is dissecting the pizza with utensils, then it's probably best to follow suit. "Mind your surroundings," as Mom used to say.
There are people who use a knife and fork on almost everything, from cheeseburgers to donuts. When I was in high school, the British monks at our lunch table would negotiate a glazed donut by cutting it into several pieces, which the students found amusing. We’d show our disdain by shoving an entire donut in our mouths, Animal House-style, and saying, “Hey, father, look at thish!”
Follow George on Twitter @stlmag_dining or send him an email at gmahe@stlmag.com. For more from St. Louis Magazine, subscribe or follow us on Facebook and Twitter.