Ask George: Hot dogs or brats?

Hot dogs or brats? —Dennis K., Kirkwood

It’s a question that I hate answering at family gatherings and picnics because my gut response is “both, please.” So I politely ask for one and sneak the other.

Regarding preferences, I lean toward tradition: No foot long hot dogs, no spirals, no circle-cut oddities that require a hamburger bun. Oh, and the bun must fit the meat. The components of a Chicago dog from Woofie’s is damn near perfect, and a grilled brat from LeGrand’s, with spicy mustard and a tablespoon of kraut on a warmed bun is a close second. (Just don’t break the skin while grilling.) And the hinge of the bun must remain intact; if the bun splits in two, it must be surrendered to the bun gods and used for other purposes (such as croutons). My favorite aberrations are the Bratzel and the pretzel-wrapped cocktail weenies from Pretzel Boys with a partial dunk into their jalapeño cheese sauce. I could eat a party trayful.

For something different, consider the Filipino longganisa sausages from The Fattened Caf (available at United Provisions and Agora Market) and the offerings from Brats of the World (available at the Tower Grove Farmers Market and The Boulevard Market).

We also asked a few local restaurateurs and members of SLM‘s dining team for their preferences:

Loryn Nalic, Balkan Treat Box: “I like a grilled or pan-fried hot dog—I’m into Tofu Pups now—with ketchup, mustard, relish, mayo, and hot peppers. Have I ever yielded to the temptation of a QuikTrip hot dog? Mayyybe.” 

Alex Donley, Gioia’s Deli: “I prefer brats from LeGrand’s. They remind me of my childhood; they’re so unique and with the perfect bite. I smoke them in my Kamado Joe for 45 minutes at 250 degrees. I also go to DiGregorio’s for salcissia and—you know, I have to say this—Gioia’s for hot salami dogs.”

Brant Baldanza, OG Hospitality Group: “Both!  Beer brats, or any brat, from Kenrick’s. I’m an East Coaster, so I like the dog to have a snap and be close to the size you get from an NYC cart…. I found Dietz & Watson that Schnucks carries, and that’s my go-to!”

Gerard Craft, Niche Food Group: “I feel like they are in two entirely different categories, and I love them both. But if I had to choose, it would be a hot dog. Specifically, a dog that is split down the middle and griddled like Howard Johnson’s used to and, more recently, Wally’s, my current favorite.” 

Qui Tran, Mai Lee, Nudo House: “I love any food in tube format! So the correct answer is a Chicago-style dog and a brat with lots of sauerkraut and mustard! Don’t choose one—treat yourself!” 

Jamie Komorek, Trattoria Marcella, Marcella’s Mia Sorella: “I probably will not have either this weekend…but not because I do not enjoy both. It’s my wife’s birthday weekend, and I can’t be serving encased meats for the birthday. I have had Woofie’s Chicago dogs two times in the last month. I do love a good brat, too. It has been a while, but a brat and a beer—I am down.”

Frank Romano, The Parkmoor Drive-In, Madrina: “When our kids were younger, we had hot dogs around for the holidays: Cardinals home opener watch party, 4th of July, Halloween (we would wrap the dogs in crescent rolls to make mummies and use mustard for the eyes). The dogs were always boiled. My wife always insists on having caramelized onions. These days, if I want a hot dog (and don’t happen to be at The Parkmoor), you might find me making a stop at the Home Depot for a Depot Dog. If I’m on I-170, Woofie’s is the spot for a Chicago dog. For grilling this weekend, it’s definitely brats, from either G&W (regular and jalapeño and cheese) or Behrmann Meats (bacon cheddar, chili cheese), with buns that fit and making caramelized onions.”

SLM‘s Holly Fann: “Brats every time. All-beef, natural-casing hot dogs are delicious smeared with some yellow mustard and relish, but brats just deliver more complex flavor and a texture worth sinking your teeth into. A great quality brat from Bolyard’s or Baumann’s, grilled to a mahogany brown until the fat and juices pop and sizzle as it drips onto the charcoal, is summer in a bun. And while I don’t really get ketchup on a hot dog, I understand why others might. Ketchup on a brat, however, is just a disgusting abomination that tastes like sadness and defeat. A simple, steady squeeze of Plochman’s or French’s on that crisp, juicy link is all you need. Extra presentation points if your mustard has that perfect wiggle-waggle design on top.” 

SLM‘s Pat Eby: “Brats win, hands down, from the exhilaration of the shopping experiences to the last juicy bite. Freshly made brats taste much better—plus, visits to a meat market or a sausage company are just too much fun. My three favorites are Bolyard’s Meat and Provisions, Kenrick’s Meat Market, and G&W Sausage. At Bolyard’s, I stop early on Saturday to enjoy the primo biscuits and gravy. Kenrick’s is like a candy store for meat lovers, and chatting up the butchers yields great tips for prep and cooking. The wait at G&W goes easier with a complimentary Busch beer to sip while contemplating the brat combinations and mustard choices. And I’m usually good for a takeout order of the house-made mini cevapi beef sausages and kaymak from J’s Pitaria.”

SLM‘s Cheryl Baehr: “All-beef hot dogs, cooked on the grill with a good amount of char and onions. Never brats—unless they’re from LeGrand’s, in which case, brats over everything.”

SLM‘s Amy De La Hunt: “I lived in Germany for six years, and there are so many types of sausage within these two categories that, to me, your question feels like asking “lager” or “ale” in the beer world! My answer depends on the time of year (summer and fall for brats, winter and spring for hot dogs), the cooking method (grilled or roasted for brats, boiled for hot dogs), and the type of carb you’re serving it with (crusty for bratwurst, soft for hot dogs—and this includes potato salad). From there, you go down a rabbit hole of styles and seasonings. The question of where to buy them is much easier: G&W Sausage in South City and Global Foods Market in Kirkwood. Sorry to sound like a snob on this one, but I can’t help channeling my German ancestry!”

SLM‘s Lynn Venhaus: “Brats, for sure! In summer and for Oktoberfest. And they must be from LeGrand’s, with sauerkraut and spicy mustard. I’m not picky on bun, but potato ones are nice. That’s my tried-and-true—it never disappoints. And if it has to be a dog, Nathan’s. My son lives in Brooklyn. It’s blasphemy if it’s not.”

SLM‘s Bill Burge: “I’ll notch one for the brats. When I’m not looking to travel far, the sweetness and layers of spice in LeGrand’s brats always remind me of Vietnamese thịt nướng. I don’t find them traditional, but they’re fantastic, plump, and calling out for a banh mi-inspired riff. For the best traditional brats in the metro area, Schneider’s Quality Meats in Waterloo, Illinois, is the place to go. Its classic bratwurst is unmatched in flavor and quality, and the extensive selection—40 varieties—means there’s something for everyone. Pro tip: Have a taste-off with a variety, but label them or enjoy watching someone get lit up by a spicy surprise! Some personal favorites beyond the traditional are Jared’s Apple Bratwursts (just the right touch of sweetness), Angry Apple (the apple brat with jalapeño heat for balance), Jalapeño (simple, clean spice that hits the spot), Horseradish (sharp and tangy, perfect with mustard), Bacon & Let’s Go Blues (even as someone who isn’t a fan of cheese brats, this one wins me over), and Jalapeño Popper (the stunner—creamy, spicy, and downright addictive).”

SLM‘s Collin Preciado: “I find hot dogs and bratwurst to be a grotesque and nauseating affront to nature. If I’m at a cookout where they’re making them, I’ll probably have one of each.”

SLM‘s dining critic Dave Lowry: “I am wienerwurst-neutral. There are those moments that I crave the footlong and others when the brat beckons. Hot dogs are boiled; brats are grilled—I don’t make the rules. I’m not particular on brands. As for condiments? Mustard: brown, coarse-grain, German (which has a little more kick than Dijon); English, with a delightful spicy whack, stone ground; or Creole. Once, I had a brat with jiemo, or Chinese mustard, the kind you put on an eggroll, and it was pretty good. And if you’re eating a Chicago-style dog, there’s all that stuff, of course—except for the little peppers you pick off. That’s it. It need not be said that people who put catsup on hot dogs should be put in exile. Woofie’s is, of course, the go-to place for dogs. LeGrand’s Market has spectacular brats, but also try the Hungarian brats at G&W Sausage. And let’s face it: The buck and a half hot dog with a drink at Costco is to our era what high tea was to the Edwardians—perhaps one of the cultural and culinary achievements of our age.”

And this from a former SLM contributor and critic, the late Ann Lemons Pollack: “G&W Sausage‘s Hungarian brat, made with extra paprika and garlic, is by far the best of their brats. Commercially, go with Hebrew National’s dogs. Of course, grilling is always the method of choice. Open the bun to warm, and toast a little. Mustard only for me, preferably something with zip for the brat. Definitely not honey mustard for either of these. Oh, and feel free to omit the celery in the potato salad.”

If you’ve made it this far, you realize that brats are the clear winner. Learn more about them on this podcast episode: ‘Arch Eats’ Podcast: Best Brats Featuring Bratmaster Jim LeGrand | St. Louis Magazine