Do you know of any restaurant in St. Louis that serves “fish ribs”? —Peter A., St. Louis
Like the inquiry about St. Peter’s Fish a few weeks ago, I drew an embarrassed blank at “fish ribs.” My first thought was that the term was a misnomer, like “pig wings” and “turkey ribs.” Turns out I was wrong: There is such a dish, and the name is legit.
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Apparently, fish ribs are most common in Brazil, where a large plant-eating, freshwater fish called tambaqui (or giant pacu) is common. According to this article in Food Republic, the ribs are cut and separated—as one would divide a slab of pork ribs—and then grilled, baked, sautéed, or deep-fried.
Closer to home, at the Lassis Inn in Little Rock, Arkansas, one of the state’s oldest restaurants, deep-fried ribs cut from the indigenous carp-like buffalo fish are “very popular down here,” a restaurant staffer reports. Two-bone rib portions are served in orders from small (five pieces) to extra-large (10 pieces). (Eat all the fish you want, but there’s no dancing at Lassis Inn, according to this video.)
Closer to home, many fried fish houses in the area serve fried buffalo (usually a scored side of fish), but none had buffalo ribs on the menu. Same goes for the fish shacks near Grafton, Illinois, although Beasley Fish Stand sells them raw ($2 per pound, special order only) but doesn’t offer them cooked.
From what I gather, people love the moist, snow-white rib meat, which makes me wonder why they’re not a thing here, especially since we’re a Midwest city where the buffalo do indeed roam. I hereby cast the first vote for deep-fried buffalo ribs. Make mine Buffalo-style.
If you have a question for George, email him at [email protected]. Follow him on Twitter @stlmag_dining or send him an email at [email protected]. For more from St. Louis Magazine, subscribe or follow us on Facebook and Twitter.
