Ask Cheryl: What end of summer ingredient are you most excited about? 

Ever since the Fourth of July party supplies hit the clearance rack, stores have been stocked with Halloween candy, turkey roasting pans, and pumpkin spice everything. I understand the impulse to rush toward fall. It’s a glorious time of year, and by September, we are all just done with heat and humidity and ready to break out the sweaters. However, I find late summer to be extraordinarily beautiful. I recently read something that referred to this time of year as summer’s “golden hour,” and I don’t think there could be a more apt description. There’s just a languid energy to the days and the summer colors are still bright, but they seem more saturated than at their apex in July.

It’s also an interesting time of year for food. Sadly, we’re bidding farewell to tomatoes, peaches, and sweet corn—yet we are not quite into pumpkins, squashes, kale, and the heartier indicators of fall.

So what ingredients define this time of year? For me, it’s pears. We’re hitting pear season’s high note right about now, and I can’t think of a more delicious way to say goodbye to summer. I love them on salads, poached, or in a rustic crostada, and I’ll adjust how I use them based on the day’s weather, which can change on a dime. If it’s cold, I’m all about blue cheese, pecans, and baking spices; on warmer days, I’ll enjoy them with some burrata and prosciutto. 

Here’s what area chefs had to say about their favorite end-of-summer ingredients:

Justin McMillen; Noto, Ellsworth Supper Club: “It’s still a little early, but the one ingredient that comes to mind is persimmon. Persimmon season is just another fond memory I have of growing up on a farm. Harvesting persimmons, taking them to my grandmother, and the process of removing the seeds was a labor of love. I remember being a child and loving the outcome of whatever dessert my grandmother would make with them. As I got older, I discovered the other varieties of persimmons that are out there; some can be eaten raw, or they can be dried and preserved. I also like using persimmons for savory applications. You can use it for pudding or persimmon cake, and you can also turn it into a cocktail as well as into a barbecue sauce. They offer familiar flavors, but they are also just a little unfamiliar, and they add some depth and richness and just bring out something in dishes if you feel like it could use a little lusciousness.”

Loryn Nalic, Balkan Treat Box, Telva at the Ridge: “For me, it’s European plums, the kind that are typically turned into prunes. You can get them September through October, and, man, do I look forward to them. I love making a few different versions of Sljivopita, or plum pie. They are also amazing paired with creamy feta. They’re also great for snacking because they are freestone, a great size, and easy to eat.”

Alexis Pereira, Pint Size Bakery: “I’m currently at the river right now trying to catch the last of summer’s sun, and I am craving some fresh garden cherry tomatoes with basil and feta. A really good Greek pasta salad I like to make for float trips is a three cheese tortellini with cherry tomatoes, basil, feta, cucumber, kalamata olives, salami, peperoncini, salt, and pepper and a Greek salad dressing. It’s so refreshing in the summer sun.”

Ben Welch, Lucy Quinn, Little Lucy: “I look forward to the first-of-fall produce because it brings sweet potatoes. Often overlooked until the holidays, these versatile tubers are at their best when slow roasted for hours. Slow roasting yields them creamy and intensely sweet.”

Nick Bognar; Indo, Pavilion, Sado. “The first thing I think of is always duck. For some reason, I’m always excited to cook some duck soon. It’s not super common, but in Thai food, we make a duck red curry with pineapple and tomatoes. Different squash dishes always go on the menu, too. Naturally, our Japanese kabocha with green curry is a hit for us. Acorn squash is my favorite. We do tempura acorn squash with a side of miso caramel that I will probably always keep on the menu.”