Afghan Kabob House quietly opened last week at 3500 Watson in the Lindenwood Park neighborhood. The buzz on social media, however, was loud, with photos of internationally inspired dishes and happy guests.
The Menu
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Start with the Afghan naan (baked in an elongated oval) and mast, or house-made yogurt, which is deliciously tart and made in house. The vegetarian ash (pronounced osh) soup consists of a nest of noodles, freshly chopped herbs, yellow dal, small red beans, and chickpeas, and yogurt, which melts into the soup and adds flavor. Other appetizers include the vegetable sambosas, filled with mashed potatoes and vegetables, served with a homemade chutney—a thin sauce of cilantro, jalapeno, oil, and vinegar blended into a smooth dipping sauce. Mantu—little dumplings stuffed with onion, beef, and cilantro—are topped with a yogurt and yellow dal sauce.
There are two menus: one for omnivores and one for vegetarians, with large portions. Among the entrées, the beef kobida kabob is made with seasoned ground beef wrapped around a flat skewer and grilled, served with a seasoned jasmine rice with carrots and raisins, as well as a crisp side salad. The fried noodles arrive with pieces of grilled chicken and stir-fried vegetables. Among other noteworthy options: lamb shank, tikki chicken kabob, chicken biryani, and au shauk (a dish of leek dumplings topped with a yogurt and meat sauce). The owner’s favorite dish is the Kahari chicken, cooked in tomatoes, green bell peppers, and onions, served with rice and naan for scooping up every last bit.
The Afghan-style Doogh is a salty yogurt drink with hints of mint and cilantro, somewhat reminiscent of whole milk with a pleasantly sour kick. (There’s no bar menu—the Halal restaurant doesn’t offer any alcoholic drinks, nor does it allow patrons to bring in drinks.)
The Atmosphere
The kabob house occupies the former Snax Gastrobar space, at the southeast corner of Watson Road and Potomac Avenue. At the moment, there’s no signage, with just the south end of the burgundy awning over the patio revealing the name. Parking is available on Watson and Potomac. The atmosphere offers good lighting, comfy seating. Eventually, the owner plans to acquire art from Afghanistan and St. Louis to hang on the walls.
The Background
Owner Faizulla Karzai and his family moved to St. Louis from Portland, Maine. He first came to the United States from Afghanistan 24 years ago to serve with the U.S. military. He later learned to cook at The Helmand, a well-known Afghan restaurant in Baltimore, Maryland. He then traveled to cook at an Afghan restaurant in Miami, Florida, and eventually opened his own place. He then returned to Portland, Maine, where he owned two popular Afghan restaurants. He sold the restaurants and moved to St. Louis last year to join his wife’s family here and to be a part of the larger Afghan community.
