Travel - Crowded Desert

Brush off the dust and you'll see Tucson's magic.

By Susan Manlin Katzman

Once a sleepy, dusty town full of cactuses and cowboys, Tucson represented the Old West. Today the city still teems with cactuses (majestic saguaros) and cowboys (especially at rodeo time, when they congregate to compete for $275,000 in prize money), but the sleepy image has bitten the dust. Layered on top of the old frontier town is a thriving metropolis filled with interesting museums, fine resorts, sophisticated restaurants, top-notch shopping and some of the best spas in America—not that first-time visitors can easily find the attractions. Unlike other major tourist destinations, Tucson masks her magic.

Greenhorns rambling along the city’s sunbaked streets, barren of trees and grass, might not immediately understand Tucson’s pull, but, given time, it lassoes the spirits and reels in the hearts of most vacationers. And not just because of climate, although it is splendid, with sweet air and starry night skies. Located in southern Arizona, 64 miles north of Mexico, Tucson enjoys more than 300 days of sunshine each year. Temperatures rise high in summer, but the elevation (2,389 feet above sea level) and desert dryness keep the heat in check. Winter temperatures are gloriously mild, hovering in the upper 60s. Sometimes it rains, causing the desert to bloom. And winter does bring snow, but it is usually confined to the mountains that surround the valley in which Tucson sits. Vacationers may ski in the morning and spend the rest of the day golfing or swimming.

There is something for everyone in Tucson; the trick is realizing how much there is to do and then plucking from the plenty. Golfers play more than 800 holes on 45 courses year-round. Naturalists study desert flora and fauna at the living museums, national parks and preserves that hug the city. Bikers, hikers and runners make their way along trails weaving through every type of terrain, from desert floor to pine-dotted mountaintop. Gour-mands delight in specialties ranging from casual Arizona-style Southwestern to contemporary haute cuisine. (Don’t miss the mango empanadas at Le Cave’s Bakery, the fish tacos at Taqueria Pico de Gallo, tea at the Seven Cups teahouse or the dazzling creations of Chef Philippe Trosch at the Ventana Room on the grounds of the Loews Ventana Canyon Resort.) And let’s not forget lovers of Western culture and wannabe cowpokes: Explore Tucson’s rugged terrain—or visit its slick western film studios—and the Old West comes alive.

There’s a reason this area has been continuously settled for 12,000 years. The only downside is that once vacationers catch on to Tucson’s charms, they find that vacations are never long enough. Which probably accounts for the number of retirees who were once visitors and are now residents.