Does anyone remember the line about restaurants setting their own standards by the way they price themselves? The Original Pancake House, a local franchise of a national chain that opened its second location in the metro area in early May, is a lot dearer than the hash houses that we recall. But is it worth the extra dollars?
These folks are, to be sure, serious about breakfast, although not in a grim-faced way. The coffee, for example, is good and lacking any sour, boiled taste. There are no obnoxious plastic blobs of cream—or, worse, ersatz “kreme.” The ski-lodge decor calls for hearty mugs, and that’s what’s used.
Then there’s the orange juice. Behind one counter is a machine, wondrous to watch in action, that takes bins of oranges, squeezes them on the spot, and tosses out the rinds. The result tastes like oranges, not frozen concentrate. The restaurant doesn’t have an alcohol license, so there are no mimosas—but sparkling wine could easily run roughshod over a juice this delicate.
The menu spans more than 20 kinds of pancakes, which vary far more than that with all the topping options. (Plus, there are crepes, waffles, and French toasts—yes, plural.) The original pancake, taken alone, is first-rate. Eaten plain or with butter, it tastes a little yeasty from a sourdough starter. The signature dish, the skillet-size apple pancake, arrives puffy and caramelized, the scent of cinnamon mingling with the tart apples. Hot, addictive, and too much to finish, it is a delight. Crepe-like Swedish pancakes appear topped with lingonberry preserves—much like cranberries in color and tartness—and with light, delicate house-whipped cream.
On the savory side (and there is one, to be sure), the bacon is remarkable: thick, crisp, deeply smoky. The sunny-sides are standouts, and the omelets are monstrous. Hash browns are crispy and tender in the middle, with a hint of onion. Corned-beef hash, clearly not from a can, manages to be rich and flavorful without a boatload of salt. Potato pancakes are fresh-grated and lacy.
Good-natured servers patiently wait as folks study the large menu, and frequent coffee refills reward customers who line up on weekends and holidays. The restaurant serves breakfast and lunch, though none of the five-or-so lunch items are available on weekends. The Original Pancake House doesn’t take reservations, but it’s worth the wait—and the dollars.
The Bottom Line: The restaurant’s not cheap, at almost $5 for an order of bacon. But it’s darn good bacon.
8817 Ladue; 17000 Chesterfield Airport Rd.
314-932-1340; 636-536-4044
originalpancakehousestlouis.com
Breakfast and lunch, Tue through Sun
