Photograph by Kevin A. Roberts
3643 Delmar
314-932-5364
Four wings, two sides, $10.” That’s all you need to know about Sweetie Pie’s, The Upper Crust, except that you might also be part of the filming for its TV show, Welcome to Sweetie Pie’s, currently the most popular program on the Oprah Winfrey Network. Chances are, owner Robbie Montgomery will be in the house, and where Miss Robbie goes, cameras follow. A greeter directs you (appropriately) to “follow the red carpet” (a series of rubber-backed mats) to a cafeteria-style line of soul food, the same vittles that Montgomery used to prepare while on the road with Ike and Tina Turner. Here, diners are escorted to a table to witness a full order of Southern hospitality—including lots of table touches, unalloyed smiles, staffers whistling, and at least one “God bless”—that makes the catfish, collards, and complimentary cornbread (and those giant fried chicken wings) truly memorable. And if you think you’ve spied Oprah, you might have: She vowed she’d stop by for more pear cobbler.
