By Chris King
With the late-February opening of Lafayette Park’s Square One Brewery, the Schlafly brewpubs have met their strongest local competition. Square One sports an unpretentious and modern atmosphere throughout its front bar, backroom and handsome outdoor courtyard.
Expect good—but not great—pub grub, with prices around $7.95. The strangely named “macro plates” are slightly more ambitious and pricey; pumpkin-seed–encrusted mahi mahi finished with a chipotle-tarragon cream is the fanciest and most expensive dish at $16.95.
The story here, though, is the beer—10 varieties brewed on site, all delicious and distinctive. The lager is a lip-smacker, and the I.P.A. balances a malty body against the expected bite of hops.
The only disappointment is that the high-alcohol barley wine comes in a small snifter at a higher price. This is common at brewpubs, which is why Schlafly endears itself to patrons by pouring big, bold beers in pint glasses and selling them for the same price as the other styles.
1727 Park, 314-231-2537, www.squareonebrewery.com. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Sun–Thu, 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Fri & Sat; bar open until 1:30 a.m. Fri & Sat
