Birth of the Cool was Miles Davis’ most inspired jazz—and is it any wonder? The man grew up in East St. Louis. Anyone who’s endured a St. Louis summer knows the need to cool off—and fast.
By Leslie Gibson McCarthy and Traci Angel
Man, it’s hot.
We’re not talking wimpy, dry, desert hot. We’re talking St. Louis hot—the kind of hot that makes your clothes hang, your pores drip and your lungs lumber. The kind of hot that makes you wonder why you bother taking a shower. The kind of hot where you want to get on your knees and thank God for the man who invented air conditioning.
Those days are coming.
The local record shattered half a century ago, when the thermometer hit 115 degrees on July 14, 1954. The 1966 heat wave killed 246 people in the city alone; the 1980 heat wave killed 113, jolting city and county health departments into action. By 1982, they had a joint plan to monitor summer temperatures and issue warnings, using something called the “wet bulb glove temperature.” Scientists conducted studies of “the St. Louis heat island.” Altruists passed out fans.
Now it’s just a matter of surviving. Coolly.
The wading pool in Tower Grove Park
Take off your shoes and socks and get ready for some old-fashioned fun. In the shadow of the Tower Grove Park bandstand is a wading pool the size of an oddly shaped basketball court. It usually has about 6 inches of water, and the little ones will have a blast splashing around on a hot summer day.
4256 Magnolia, 314-771-2679
Meramec Caverns
It’s worth the 60-mile drive to Stanton to see one of Missouri’s natural wonders—and the place that allegedly served as a hideout for Jesse James and his gang. About 400 million years in the making, Meramec Caverns offers an array of unique colors and mineral formations in an 80-minute walking tour. Wear comfortable shoes and don’t forget the sweatshirts: The temperature stays a cool 60 degrees throughout. Note: It’s best to wait until the kids are a little older, as strollers are not allowed.
I-44, exit 230; 800-676-6105; www.americascave.com
The cool mists at Grant’s Farm
Yes, we know the Bauernhof is the ultimate destination for the grownups. But in a little corner by the elephants is a walkway that sprays a fine mist—a must-stop for kids. One trip through and they’re cooled off and happy. By the 10th trip, they’re soaked to the skin. That means they need more time to dry off, which translates into a more leisurely, relaxing visit to the Bauernhof.
10501 Gravois, 314-843-1700, www.grantsfarm.com
The Museum of Westward Expansion below the Arch
We all know that stainless steel thing is the main attraction. But consider the wave of cool that hits you as you slowly descend underground to the museum. Anyone who has survived a visit to Fair St. Louis will tell you that in July, the underground museum is the center of cool.
St. Louis riverfront, 314-655-1700, www.nps.gov/jeff
Crown Candy Kitchen
It’s not only cool in summer, it’s cool, period. Try getting a table for lunch on a weekday and you’ll rub elbows with the mayor, an alderman or a homicide detective. Once you slide onto that hard bench, soak in the atmosphere of an old-time malt shop, then wait for that first sip of strawberry malt to chill your throat.
1401 Saint Louis, 314-621-9650, www.crowncandykitchen.com
Suds for you
For an adult educational experience, tour Schlafly’s Bottleworks, where the beer is stored cold and served at “cellar temperature,” about 54 degrees. Modern in design, the microbrewery has tours on the hour Sunday through Thursday from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. and Fridays and Saturdays from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m.
7260 Southwest, 314-241-2337, www.schlafly.com
Catch a flick
A cool, dark movie theater is a refuge when the temperature spikes, and a movie theater in a shopping mall doubles your chances of an air-conditioned getaway. Sip a bubbly fountain drink and think about those poor souls sweating as they cross the steamy asphalt. Try the Landmark Plaza Frontenac Cinema.
210 Plaza Frontenac, 314-995-6285, www.landmarktheaters.com/market/St.Louis/PlazaFrontenacCinema.htm
Take an arcade break
Step into the dark wonderland of play and let the flashing lights guide you to a cooler place. Dave & Buster’s is an oasis for big and small gamers. Buy a power card to access the fun of the Million Dollar Midway and grab some grub at the restaurant to build up your energy for carrying all your winnings—trinkets and stuffed animals—to the car.
I-70 at Earth City Expressway in Riverport, 314-209-8015, www.daveandbusters.com
Get diving certified
No, we don’t live near a coral reef or even an ocean, but what better way to impress friends on the next vacation than, “Don’t wait up, I’m going scuba diving”? Scuba Shop USA has adult and youth programs all summer long. All levels can get wet with snorkeling or scuba classes and learn about diving trips.
11728 Baptist Church, 314-849-3483, www.scubashopusa.com
The Flower District
Pop into businesses along the 2600 block of LaSalle Street and feel the cool air sneaking out of these buildings, home to flower wholesalers. St. Louis’ best florists get their freshest bouquet boosters from this area, and some even have workshops nearby.
The coolest drinks in town
- The Arnold Palmer (club tea) at Gourmet to Go
- The Mojito (club soda, rum and sugar over ice with fresh mint leaves) at Erato
- Vietnamese iced coffee at Lemongrass
- Sangria at BARcelona
- A fishbowl at Rigazzi’s
By Leslie Gibson McCarthy and Traci Angel
