While writing the Zagat Guide for St. Louis, we noticed that the reviews for Zinnia nearly all shrieked, “Purple!” The restaurant’s interior was indeed a lovely lavender, but that was probably the least memorable thing about it to the legions who loved it.
Zinnia’s interior was indeed pleasant, and a covered back porch made the setting even more wondrous. But the food is what brought the crowds. Tiny duck tacos arrived in wonton shells. Cold mussels came in mustard sauce. Zinnia was the first place in town to offer Madeira-glazed sweetbreads as a permanent menu item. Lamb shanks, freed of the bone, were popular. And a nut-encrusted trout was there from Zinnia’s opening.
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Zinnia, located in a former gas station on Big Bend near Webster University, was always busy before performances at The Rep and Opera Theatre of St. Louis. Opening nights, in particular, made Zinnia a tough table to score. The staff was nearly flawless under the direction of former Café Balaban chef David Guempel and front-of-the-house manager Larry Adams.
The restaurant closed its doors in March 2008 after more than 18 years in business. But the purple people-pleaser will forever be remembered as one of a kind.
