Here’s a notice to the Chicken Littles who think St. Louis’ restaurant sky is falling: The dining scene here is as robust as ever. By our calculations, in the last three months of 2012 alone, 45 independent restaurants opened in the metro area. That’s one every other day. And while such lofty numbers did complicate the task of compiling SLM’s biennial list of the region’s best new restaurants, the accomplished eaters bylined here have never scoffed at a food challenge. We trust you’ll relish the results.
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Basso
Hi Pointe
Down a curving staircase and into a dramatic room, Basso charms the eye. And the food, after early missteps, has hit its stride. There are interesting cocktails and a by-the-glass wine list, plenty of sharing opportunities, and a changing menu, courtesy of James Beard Award-winning chef Patrick Connolly (the only local chef to garner that honor). And while TVs can play havoc with the atmosphere, it’s otherwise quite romantic. The Cheshire, 7036 Clayton Ave., 314-932-7820, basso-stl.com.
Table
Benton Park
“Communal dining” may strike fear in the hearts of some, but we’re guessing St. Louis will quickly find itself smitten with Table, the latest venture from Home Wine Kitchen chef and co-owner Cassy Vires. Starters include a roster of “bites” that could be one of the best dining deals in town. And the menu—featuring animal, vegetable, and offal categories—is designed for sharing and creating conversation among new dining companions. 1821 Cherokee, 314-449-1888, tablestl.com.
Mission Taco Joint
Delmar Loop
Given the lines trailing out the door at Adam and Jason Tilford’s third Mexican eatery, it’s easy to say the third time is the charm. With Tortillaria and Milagro Modern Mexican successfully under their belts, the St. Louis natives clearly know how to run a Mexican restaurant—or three. Combining fresh corn tortillas and a few dishes from their sister restaurants with a few outstanding new items (like MOFU tofu tacos), Mission is sure to be a hit on the Delmar Loop for years to come. 6235 Delmar, 314-932-5430, missiontacostl.com.
Sugarfire Smoke House
Olivette
The rib renaissance currently smoking up the Lou has plenty of exciting players, but Sugarfire has cornered the market on creativity. Burgers are a blend of grass-fed beef, brisket, and short-rib meat. The rotation of sides can include sweet-potato salad or cheddar grit cakes. And don’t forget the daily specials (like the flavorful burnt ends) and desserts (like chocolate-chip cookies made with smoked sea salt) from co-owner Carolyn Downs. 9200 Olive, 314-997-2301, sugarfiresmokehouse.com.
The Libertine
Clayton
St. Louis had been anxiously awaiting the return of chef Josh Galliano’s James Beard Award–nominated cooking, and when acclaimed bartender and sommelier Nick Luedde returned from Chicago to launch The Libertine in Clayton, a kindred alliance was formed. A complete package, The Libertine delivers fare both hearty (coffee-brined pork chops) and whimsical (crispy pig tails), with inventive cocktails and a thoughtful wine list. 7927 Forsyth, 314-862-2999, libertinestl.com.
Elaia and Olio
Botanical Heights
There’s an elegant graciousness to dining in a garage bay that’s just hard to equal… We kid. Visionary chef Ben Poremba has turned an old gas station and an even older adjoining house into one of the city’s handsomest dining destinations. Olio (the wine bar) and Elaia (the attached restaurant) are both charming and slick. Chargrilled octopus, marinated beets and ricotta, “pies in a jar”… You come here just to see what Poremba has come up with, as well as for a stunningly varied, polished wine list. 1634 Tower Grove, 314-932-1088, elaiastl.com, oliostl.com.
The Block
Central West End
At the new Central West End location, it makes a difference that chef and owner Marc Del Pietro and his minions do all of their own butchering (as is the case at the flagship location in Webster Groves). Otherwise, The Block couldn’t offer entrées with prices in the teens, a modern-day rarity. Start with a chef’s charcuterie platter, and laze into a Rensing’s pork chop or fillets of cornmeal-encrusted Missouri trout with roasted cauliflower, both $17. A meal’s best enjoyed on the tiered brick patio, one of our go-to landing spots this fall. 33 N. Sarah, 314-535-5100, theblockrestaurant.com.
Photography by Courtney Zahner
Gringo
Central West End
Where does one go after serving pizza to President Barack Obama? For Chris Sommers, who opened more of his Pi pizzerias both here and in D.C., the answer was to open a Mexican restaurant. Using many of the same principles that drive Pi’s success—local ingredients, outstanding service, and great-tasting food—Sommers and his crew have successfully crossed cultures. Margaritas are a must, and taco choices (pork belly, tofu, octopus, and grasshoppers, to name a few) are abundant. So bring an appetite—or a group to share. 398 N. Euclid, 314-449-1212, gringo-stl.com.
Five Star Burgers
Clayton
While other chef-driven burger restaurants employ a chef to make burgers, the spirit of Five Star is that a great chef opens a joint to churn out upscale burgers. By that standard, chef Steve Gontram, formerly of Harvest, is the first to give St. Louis a true take on this concept. Everything at Five Star is outstanding, right down to cane sugar-based Maine Root Sodas and Five Star Floats. And the burgers are always cooked to perfection. 8125 Maryland, 314-720-4350, 5starburgersstl.com.
Marcella’s Mia Sorella
Ballwin
West County rejoiced when Jamie and Steve Komorek brought their beloved take on rustic Italian cuisine from Trattoria Marcella to Ballwin. The two restaurants share a handful of dishes, but Mia Sorella is no rehash of its successful sibling. Instead, the brothers branch out from the Tratt’s well-known standards to explore house-made pastas, handspun pizzas of imported 00 flour, and our favorite of all: a decadently juicy, charred burger topped with pancetta and red-onion jam. 14426 Clayton, 636-333-1015, miasorellastl.com.
Bar Les Frères
Clayton
It’s not Montparnasse; it’s Clayton. But there’s terrace dining, a wall of elegant framed paintings, and lobster bisque to the standards of Carême. The French-inspired restaurant is cozy in the winter, to be sure, but when it’s nice, the terraced patio is most civilized. (The only catch: a no-reservations policy.) And while the menu isn’t entirely classic bistro (grapefruit-endive salad, anyone?), it tends to be in that vein. With I Fratellini and Bobo Noodle House both already smashing successes, this time owner Zoe Robinson muscled up and hit a long home run. 7637 Wydown, 314-725-8880.
prasino
St. Charles
It doesn’t take long to appreciate the attention to detail at prasino (pronounced prahs-uh-no, which is Greek for “green”). The restaurant is a bold, eco-minded addition to St. Charles’ growing food scene. Spacious and elegant, the interior design allows for intimate dates and large groups alike to partake of a seasonal menu with diverse options. Open for breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch, chef Jared Case’s kitchen casts a wide net, from burgers, sushi, and charred peppers to his signature black cod. 1520 S. Fifth, St. Charles, 636-277-0202, prasino.com.
Mike Shannon’s Grill
Edwardsville, Ill.
Chockablock with sports memorabilia (baseball, horse-racing, Blues hockey), Mike Shannon’s Grill is said to resemble Big Mike’s basement. It’s also a shrine to some pretty good food: an array of half-pound burgers, fried chicken livers, sweet-potato fries with candied jalapeños—and a smoky, house-made ketchup that’s as perfect as a called third strike “right down central” to win a Redbirds game. 871 S. Arbor Vitae, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-655-9911,
Southwest Diner
South City
Whereas most St. Louis diners are reserved for consumption of slingers during the wee hours, Southwest Diner is a refreshing alternative to the neighborhood diners of yore, serving only breakfast and lunch in an airy space that’s both Southwest cowboy and hipster. And the diner does it with friendly service, where a cup of coffee at the counter comes with a smile and some pleasant conversation. Flo and Mel would be proud. 6803 Southwest, 314-260-7244, southwestdinerstl.com.
Central Table Food Hall
Central West End
Restaurants that try to be everything to everyone are a networking challenge best suited to chefs named Zuckerberg. With that in mind, we’ve been consistently impressed with Central Table Food Hall, which manages to thread the needle between fast casual and fine dining—not to mention contemporary American, Asian, and European cuisine. Kaldi’s coffee, Companion baked goods, and traditional deli sandwiches are quickly packaged for on-the-go orders. A raw bar and sushi station bookend a sleek bar, while the dining room is divided into comfortable nooks that offer seclusion from the bustle of the expansive, airy space. Flames dance across an open hearth that anchors the room, a backdrop for pizzaiolos who make Neapolitan pizzas to perfection. From other cooking stations come warm and cold tapas, platters of local charcuterie, and modern spins on rustic French and Italian fare. And if desired, all of it can magically appear on your table at once. It’s like the iPad: We’re thankful that it works, but we’re not sure how it does. 23 S. Euclid, 314-932-5595, centraltablestl.com.
Pastaria
Clayton
A celebration of pizza and pasta defines Pastaria. Glorious ribbons of pappardelle, golden squares of ravioli, and tender bucatini tubes are all churned out in one corner of the restaurant. The preparations are stunningly simple. A beefy Bolognese decorates fat nubbins of strozzapreti. Ravioli are stuffed with pistachios and mint, then bathed in warm brown butter. The cacio e pepe is exquisite—nothing but pasta, cracked pepper, butter, and loads of freshly grated pecorino and Grana Padano cheese. Sides (like a shaved kale salad spiked with creamy anchovy dressing) and a few main courses (like roasted chicken and braised beef) are delicious distractions. But the pasta is premier at Gerard Craft’s airy, family-friendly eatery, which is simply unparalleled in the region. And oh yeah—did we mention the gelato? Also house-made? With flavors like orange pistachio nougat and goat cheese with raspberry? Oh. Yeah. 7734 Forsyth Blvd., 314-862-6603, pastariastl.com.
Restaurant Yearlings
10 noteworthy newish establishments
These standout restaurants have celebrated their first birthday, a worthy accomplishment in a time when social media can doom a restaurant before most diners even know it exists.
Baileys’ Range
You can’t go wrong at any of owner Dave Bailey’s four restaurants, but the family-friendly Baileys’ Range is for burger lovers. Be sure to study the menu before you go: There are beef, chicken, bison, lamb, and vegetarian patties, with additional specials, toppings, bun choices, and several house-made dipping sauces for fries. Oh, and then you have the milkshakes and the cool decor… You get the idea. Just go. 920 Olive, 314-241-8121, baileysrange.com.
Blondie’s Coffee, Wine, and Dessert Bar
Shades of blond adorn nearly every surface: Wood, fabric, and tile repeat the inviting palette in curving fashion. Furniture ranges from high tables perfect for breakfast, lunch, or brunch to clubby leather chairs more suitable for an evening glass of vino, fireside. Whether you order a Blonde Benedict, a signature blondie, or a popover, you’ll find the food is no afterthought at this stylish downtown spot. 1301 Washington, 314-241-6100, blondiesstl.com.
Coastal Bistro & Bar
Resist the temptation to make a meal of those incredible lobster-roll starters. There are just too many other delights on this menu, like a mac and cheese studded with lobster or a bacon-speckled clam chowder. Coastal Bistro & Bar is consistently innovative, sautéing scallops crusted in cornmeal, then sprinkling them with bacon dust, or topping Scottish salmon with a rhubarb glaze. The presentations shine (or maybe our judgment is colored by the seashore decor). Coastal’s a stunningly good seafood restaurant in the port of Clayton. 14 N. Central, 314-932-7377, coastalbistro.com.
Cleveland-Heath
A relaxed atmosphere (the staff wears plaid shirts) and large portions belie the culinary pedigrees of chefs Jenny Cleveland and Ed Heath. A meal could be made of the sides alone (notably, the Brussels sprouts and cheddar biscuits). But then you’d miss out on the kale salad and pork porterhouse topped with an egg. 106 N. Main, Edwardsville, Ill., 618-307-4830, clevelandheath.com.
Crushed Red
Eating at Crushed Red just feels smart. It’s the elongated, gourmet pizzas with whole-grain dough. It’s the chopped, organic salads made as you watch. It’s the understated, classy decor, which conjures more of a chill vibe than the rest of the fast-casual competition. And did we mention that the ingenious owners are locals? 8007 Maryland, 314-725-8007; 140 S. Kirkwood, 314-238-0100; crushed-red.com.
EdgeWild Restaurant & Winery
While you wait to be seated for dinner at this Chesterfield hot spot, located beside the mall, take advantage of happy-hour pricing in the always-bustling bar. Afterward, a memorable meal awaits in the dining room, where westward-facing windows frame the evening sky and diners can take in a sunset over the Missouri River Valley. 550 Chesterfield Center, 636-532-0550, edgewildwinery.com.
Nico
It’s silly to laud a restaurant on the basis of a single dish, but Nico’s lamb burger is divine. The other food is pretty tasty, too, but the dish we dream about is the burger, with fries and aioli. Nico isn’t the place for a quiet dinner (this is the Loop, after all), but the restaurant deserves extra points for offering brunch on Saturdays and Sundays. 6525 Delmar, 314-727-0200, nicostl.com.
Quincy Street Bistro
Quincy Street Bistro may technically be 2 years old, but it would be doing it a disservice to ignore chef Rick Lewis’ success in turning this cozy South City hangout into ground zero for Southern cuisine and comfort food. Hand-cut chops and buttermilk fried chicken are can’t-misses, but it’s the rotating menu of specials—chef-driven dishes that highlight locally grown produce and from-scratch cooking—that make the bistro worth a second look. 6931 Gravois, 314-353-1588, quincystreetbistro.com.
Sassy JAC’s
Golden, crispy garlic fries. A sandwich reborn as a “muffuletta salad,” served with dried prosciutto chips. A Southern/St. Louis hybrid dish known as the Surf-N-Swine made with shrimp, cheese grits, vinegar barbecue sauce, and the most tender pork steak in town. Sassy JAC’s is a sleeper in Soulard and the gastropub of the moment. 1730 S. Eighth, 314-932-1280, sassyjacs.com.
Sauce on the Side
Its huge calzones, late hours, and fun vibe have taken downtown by the scruff of the neck and shaken it around. Choices like the Gonzo (starring salami, dates, baby spinach, and four cheeses) and the Magic Carpet Ride (made with four kinds of mushrooms) often make for two delish meals—and a ridiculously good deal. 903 Pine, 314-241-5667, eatcalzones.com.
Restaurant Postmortems
Our yearly restaurant memoriam
The Fatted Calf
12 S. Bemiston
Last Meal Served: March 1
Why (We Think) It Closed: Opinions ranged from changes in ownership to changes in product to charging for burger condiments.
Why We’ll Miss It: Originally owned by Vince and Tony Bommarito, The Fatted Calf was responsible for many a local burger craving.
Where to Go Now: Steve Gontram, another local restaurant notable, and his Five Star Burgers are creating a similar—and deserved—stir among local burger cognoscenti.
Araka
131 Carondelet
Last Meal Served: March 9
Why (We Think) It Closed: Chef changes often lead the tone and content of restaurants’ cuisine to waver.
Why We’ll Miss It: It was the most creatively designed and hippest restaurant in town, right down to the choice of music.
Where to Go Now: Stop by Scape in the CWE, which is more refined and less edgy. Chef Eric Kelly’s food and focus are as solid as the Harley that he drives to work.
Dierdorf & Hart’s Steak House
323 Westport Plaza
Last Meal Served: May 18
Why (We Think) It Closed: Over the years, Westport Plaza lost critical mass, in the process becoming less and less of a dining destination.
Why We’ll Miss It: A recent change in theme—combining steakhouse and “Ame-
rican Bistro”—was a cutting-edge idea with broad appeal.
Where to Go Now: Soon-to-open Gamlin Whiskey House is billing itself as a contemporary steakhouse, a central-corridor version of what D&H was trying to be.
Duff’s Restaurant
392 N. Euclid
Last Meal Served: June 23
Why (We Think) It Closed: After 41 years serving up culinary and literary wisdom in the CWE, the owners deserved to retire.
Why We’ll Miss It: We loved the Duff’s family, where one of the “new kids” had been on staff 15 years.
Where to Go Now: Check out one of the other stalwarts in the neighborhood, Dressel’s Pub, which has been experiencing a resurgence of late.
Salt
4356 Lindell
Last Meal Served: June 29
Why (We Think) It Closed: A combination of internal and external squabbles led to a series of lawsuits. Restaurants rarely survive such carnage.
Why We’ll Miss It: That single sautéed scallop, sauced and then sealed in a Mason jar with a waft of cedar smoke, was pellucid perfection.
Where to Go Now: The Libertine in Clayton has that same air of creativity.
Monumental Meals
Where to admire the Arch while you dine
Up in the Air
Cielo Restaurant & Bar: Cielo has fine dining in a superlative rooftop setting. Snag a two-person swivel chair at cocktail hour. Four Seasons Hotel St. Louis, 999 N. Second, Eighth Floor, 314-881-2105, cielostlouis.com.
Kemoll’s: Enjoy a romantic dinner at several atmospheric tables hugging the eastern windows. 211 N. Broadway, 40th Floor, 314-421-0555, kemolls.com.
Three Sixty: During a Cardinals game, listen for the roars from Busch Stadium, then quickly look toward a big-screen TV to see what all the ruckus was about. Hilton St. Louis at the Ballpark, 1 S. Broadway, 26th Floor, 314-241-8439, 360-stl.com.
Top of the Riverfront: Breakfast, lunch, dinner, and brunch are served at the city’s only revolving restaurant. Reserve a table now for next year’s Fourth of July. Millennium Hotel St. Louis, 200 S. Fourth, 28th Floor, 314-241-3191, milleniumhotels.com.
On Ground Level
Angelo’s Taverna: Excellent T-ravs are served with the Gateway Arch looming right outside—a St. Louis double play. 316 Market, 314-588-9000, lombardosrestaurants.com.
Gio’s Ristorante & Bar: A spectacular patio faces Kiener Plaza and the Arch. Reserve one of them ASAP. 701 Market, 314-241-2424, giosdowntown.com.
Martini’s Lounge: The most inexpensive Arch-view dining in town takes place at this lounge from 4 to 7 p.m. Monday through Friday, when drinks get discounted and appetizers are half-price. Millennium Hotel St. Louis, 200 S. Fourth, 314-241-9500, milleniumhotels.com.
Ruth’s Chris Steak House: USDA Prime steaks, with a national landmark right across Memorial Drive? The Gateway Arch doesn’t get much closer—especially if you can snag a romantic table near the windows. 315 Chestnut, 314-259-3200, ruthschris.com.
Best new Biz Model
Blood & Sand
Defying the logic of cynics—that a members-only cocktail joint couldn’t survive in St. Louis—it would be easy for co-owners Adam Frager and TJ Vytlacil to say, “We told you so.” Like Blood & Sand, however, they’re too classy for that, and with their impeccably crafted cocktails backed by chef Chris Bork’s locally sourced menu, we’re here to say, “And we’re glad you were right!” 1500 St. Charles, 314-241-7263, bloodandsandstl.com.
Baking Up a Storm
In the wake of the cupcake craze, St. Louis has experienced a boom in bakeries.
HIPSTER QUOTIENT KEY:
1/5 = Still wearing Ed Hardy T-shirts
5/5 = James Franco, minus the bad poetry
I Scream Cakes
2641 Cherokee, South City
Concept: Alternative ice-cream parlor; dine-in or carryout
Specialties: Whimsical ice-cream cakes, cookie “sammiches,” Yappy Hours for canines, and vegan options
Our Faves: Classic dark chocolate-and-milk chocolate drumsticks and watermelon-ginger sorbet
Chops: Owner Kerry Soraci has a background in the arts, including work as an arts educator and tattoo artist.
Hipster Quotient: 5/5
Chouquette
1626 Tower Grove, Botanical Heights
Concept: Parisian café meets haute-couture display case; dine-in or carryout
Specialties: Custom-order cakes shaped like handbags and shoes; mini choux in daily flavors
Our Faves: Any of the macarons, but especially the green tea and chocolate ones
Chops: Owner Simone Faure was the executive pastry chef at the Ritz-Carlton, St. Louis.
Hipster Quotient: 3/5
Piccione Pastry
6197 Delmar, Delmar Loop
Concept: Contemporary Italian café with late-night hours and generous samples
Specialties: Assorted Italian cookies and cannoli
Our Faves: Pistachio cannoli and ricotta cheesecake
Chops: Owner Richard Nix of Butler’s Pantry mined his Italian heritage for recipes.
Hipster Quotient: 3/5
Pie Oh My!
2719 Sutton, Maplewood
Concept: Small, simple space with photos (of pie) for sale; carryout
Specialties: A range of fruit and cream pies in varying sizes: full, 5-inch, tart-size, mini, individual, and slices
Our Faves: Coconut cream pie and blackberry galettes
Chops: Owner Jane Callahan delivered pies to various markets and grocery stores before opening her store last year.
Hipster Quotient: 2/5
Pint Size Bakery
3825 Watson, Lindenwood Park
Concept: Teeny-tiny space; carryout or eat outside
Specialties: Oatmeal pies and salted-caramel croissants
Our Faves: Savory scones and strawberry hand pies
Chops: Owner Christy Augustin was pastry chef at King Louie’s and Sidney Street Cafe.
Hipster Quotient: 5/5
Russell’s on Macklind
5400 Murdoch, Southampton
Concept:Full-service casual dining and carryout; wine and dessert events
Specialties: Mile-high cakes and gooey butter cake with a shortbread crust
Our Faves: Blackberry gooey butter cake and oatmeal stout cake
Chops: Owner Russell Ping, a self-described “fat kid at heart,” is a classically trained chef and self-taught baker. He also owns the original Russell’s Cafe & Bakery in Fenton.
Hipster Quotient: 2/5
The Sweet Divine
1801 S. Ninth, Soulard
Concept: Signature pink boxes and a store that’s cleaner than a kid-licked spatula; dine-in or carryout
Specialties: Drunken Pig and ELVIS cupcakes
Our Faves: Red velvet and Vanilla Ecstasy cupcakes
Chops: Owners Jenna and Jason Siebert won the Angry Birds episode of Cupcake Wars on the Food Network.
Hipster Quotient: 2/5
Whisk: a Sustainable Bakeshop
2201 Cherokee, South City
Concept: Homespun neighborhood bakery with plenty of seating; carryout
Specialties: Ice pops and cupcakes
Our Faves: Potato-chip blondies and avocado ice pops
Chops: Owner Kaylen Wissinger started out with Farm Fresh Cupcakes at farmers’ markets, before demand drove her to open a storefront.
Hipster Quotient: 4/5
More New Notables
Five additional restaurants worth a visit
Occasionally, new restaurants fly in under the radar, for a variety of reasons—too new, too small, not quite ready for prime time—and miss out on SLM‘s print deadline. The following five eateries are worthy contenders. (And we probably could come up with five more.)
Fork & Stix
It’s not easy to find, but those who seek out Fork & Stix (pictured above) are rewarded with a trip to Northern Thailand. It’s these dishes, from sour-sausage and larp to hung-lay curry that separate this tiny restaurant from the other Thai-food options in the Loop. Our little secret: Ask the friendly staff what’s off menu and dive in to plates that balance spicy, sweet, and sour with ease. 549 Rosedale, 314-863-5572.
Hendrick’s BBQ
Get started at this sprawling, country-cool hangout, with flaky turnovers stuffed with pulled pork and Gouda. Proceed with smoked brisket—or that incredibly crispy fried chicken. Don’t forget sides: cheddar grits, sweet-potato casserole, bacon-braised greens. It says much about a BBQ joint that you can rave about it and never even mention the smoked ribs, which are delightful. Leave room for the sweet tea and Uncle Earl rum cocktail. And at some point, proceed to the Moonshine Blues Bar downstairs. 1200 S. Main, 636-724-8600, hendricksbbq.com.
Mi Linh
At one time, the tastes and textures of Vietnamese fare were a rarity in St. Louis. No more. Vietnamese eateries are everywhere now. More discerning connoisseurs are drawn to the special ones, like Mi Linh. A specialty is the beef noodle soup, Hue style, with lemongrass-scented broth, chewy noodles, and oodles of tender shank meat. Squares of lightly fried calamari are also memorable, as is slow-cooked duck in a basil-bright broth. And don’t leave without trying the sweet jackfruit or durian smoothies. 9737 Manchester, 314-918-8868, milinh.net.
Steve’s Hot Dogs on The Hill
You can’t pass on a hot-dog joint that’s clever enough to come up with the chorizo-stuffed Aye Chihuahua or the Al Hra-Brat-ski. Even though some closets are bigger than this restaurant, it serves some of the best—and oddest—dogs in the city, swaddled between a pizza dough-like bun. The smoked Andouille link and brown mustard is spicy-smoky. The “Backyard BBQ” dog—slathered with baked beans, potato salad, and BBQ sauce—is just, well, different. 2131 Marconi, 314-762-9899, steveshotdogsstl.com.
Tripel Brasserie
This new restaurant in Lafayette Square brings distinctive Belgian fare to St. Louis. The moules are exquisite and include more than a half dozen versions, including blanketed in a cream sauce or in a wine broth. There’s also other classic Belgian food here, such as beef stew ladled over fries and Flemish chicken stew. And you’ll find some surprises on occasion, like the grilled antelope steak. A convivial atmosphere—and almost 80 beers—make this a splendid, authentic brasserie. 1801 Park, 314-678-7787, tripelstl.com.
Editor’s Note: This story has been updated to reflect the correct neighborhoods of Basso, Mission Taco Joint, and Southwest Diner, which are all located within the city limits.
