CLASSIC COMEBACK
Beffa’s
Politicos, cops, and business titans all convene at this St. Louis staple, which reopened in March 2020 in Midtown. The iconic cafeteria serves roast beef and Reuben sandwiches, as well as six-packs of beer (which should alone qualify it for a Michelin rating). Low-key Beffa’s is short on frills but long on atmosphere—and is an absolutely essential place to visit to better understand this city. 2700 Olive.
Kevin A. Roberts
SMOOTH LANDING
Hangar Kitchen and Bar
In a year when travel was off the table, the much-anticipated Rock Hill restaurant brought the world of food to us, thanks to a menu inspired by dishes that owners Chris and Courtney Sedlak have enjoyed at destinations around the globe. Eclectic yet cohesive, Hangar proves that the something-for-everyone approach can result in happiness all around. 9528 Manchester.
Kevin A. Roberts
STEAK ESCAPE
Moussalli’s Prime
Since its inception in late 2019, this charming farm-to-table restaurant just outside Edwardsville has added fresh seafood, a lovely patio, and live music to its roster of USDA Prime-certified Angus steaks from Niman Ranch. It only takes one visit for the three Moussalli brothers to make you feel like family. 7415 IL–143, Edwardsville.
RESILIENT REOPENING
Brennan’s
When the newly relocated restaurant opened its doors just a block from its original Central West End location, stunning floor-to-ceiling bars, original artwork, dapper appointments, and rakish details bewitched visitors. Days later, a devastating fire destroyed a large portion of the space. Owners Kevin Brennan and contractor Tim O’Connor of O’Connor Property Services rolled up their sleeves and went back to work, restoring every detail to dazzle visitors once again. 316 N. Euclid.
Kevin A. Roberts
MODERN MEXICAN
5 RECENT ADDITIONS TO THE SCENE
Whatever kind of Mexican you crave, chances are you’ll find it at one of the new restaurants that opened in the past year, and none has been more eagerly anticipated than U. City favorite Frida’s brother restaurant, Diego’s. Two years in the making, it offers a menu of mostly small plates, including the house specialty queso flameado. Uncle Julio’s has brought its hit-making, mesquite-grilled Tex-Mex fajitas to Frontenac. Vegan tacos and death metal come together at Terror Tacos on South Grand. As its name implies, Mezcaleria las Chupacabras in the Boulevard–Saint Louis offers an enormous array of mezcal. And after a devastating fire temporarily shuttered the restaurant in early 2020, torta ahogadas are again being served at a beautifully rebirthed Overland fixture, Taqueria Durango—a triumphant return.
Kevin A. Roberts
SECOND SHIFT
The Lucky Accomplice
Those who experienced chef Logan Ely’s ambitious tasting menu at Shift may have been surprised at first when visiting The Lucky Accomplice, the new Fox Park restaurant that Ely opened with Brian Schuman. The restaurant’s relaxed, spacious dining room—filled with the din of laughter and offering a popular weekend brunch—seems opposite of Shift’s cerebral, high-end experience. After a visit, however, it all makes perfect sense. 2501 S. Jefferson.
CULINARY COURTYARD
Edera Italian Eatery
Given the curbside nature of dining over the past year, restaurant openings have been quieter than usual, but the former Scape flipping into Edera demands attention. The CWE restaurant comprised a dream team of restaurant veterans, including former Erato on Main owner Tim Foley as GM and chef Mike Randolph (of the Good Pie and Randolfi’s) creating a pitch-perfect menu in his culinary sweet spot of classic Italian comfort and pizza. 48 Maryland Plaza.
Around the Block
A NEIGHBORHOOD ROUNDUP OF NEW RESTAURANTS
Kevin A. Roberts
CLAYTON
Clayton recently added two spectacular eateries to an already impressive menu of options in the county seat. Tony’s hoisted itself from downtown, moved west, and became even classier. The same incredible dishes are now presented in a cool, sleek, trés upscale space with soaring windows and flawless service. Right down the street, Casa Don Alfonso features the region’s most stunning open kitchen and a sprawling interior. The place turns out the most extravagant Campania specialties this side of the its sister restaurant in Italy.
NORTH COUNTY
In St. Ann, at Pocha STL Korean Pub, bi bim bap is served alongside noodle dishes and barbecue skillets. Korean fried chicken is splendid at Fire Chicken, along with such surprises as popcorn dumplings and teriyaki shrimp. Chicken is even more lit at Chuck’s Hot Chicken, with Nashville-style sandwiches that range from the tingly to the incendiary. Love at First Bite’s approach covers everything from smoked meats to fried rice. And baker Lia Weber, who appeared on TLC’s Next Great Baker, opened the much-anticipated Made. by Lia in Old Town Florissant.
Kevin A. Roberts
ST. CHARLES
A slew of new restaurants are bringing both fine and fun dining to the region’s western outskirts. Napoli III features elegant Italian cuisine that’s beautifully plated and served in a swank setting. Lowly nachos go haute at Loaded Elevated Nachos, where the chips are laden with everything from bahn mi sandwich ingredients to crab Rangoon toppings. Then there’s Sauce on the Side, a sort of monument to the greatness of calzones, where these tasty half-moon pastries are stuffed with a whole deli of ingredients.
THE GROVE
When Shayn Prapaisilp chose the name Chao Baan, which translates to “of the people” in Thai, it not only embodied the spirit of his new restaurant but also the neighborhood’s diverse businesses and residents. The culinary wizards from Kounter Kulture serve up memorable breakfast items at Songbird. And chef Ben Grupe’s highly anticipated restaurant Tempus adds even more options to the ever-growing dining community. This spring, Michael Butler introduced Open Concept, a unique bar model where guests pay a set fee at the door for unlimited drinks. And in May, former nurse Ronda Walker opened Creole With a Splash of Soul, serving up soul food and Creole barbecue.
Kevin A. Roberts
WEBSTER GROVES
Balkan Treat Box, Olive + Oak, and Guerrilla Street Food have all drawn local and national attention to the neighborhood’s vibrant dining scene. The owners of The Frisco Barroom expanded their footprint with The Annex. Webster has only continued to blossom in the past year, with the additions of The Parkmoor Drive-In, O+O Pizza, Perennial on Lockwood, and Chiang Mai. And the owners of Union Loafers plan to open a much-anticipated bagel shop, Bagel Union.
BALLPARK VILLAGE
Busch Stadium is officially open at fully capacity seating, but there are also plenty of new nearby perches to enjoy the game—or just hang out with family and friends. Request a ballpark-facing room at the Live! By Loews hotel, where a triple play of options await. Grab a meal on the patio at Clark & Bourbon; sample one of 480 whiskies in The Whiskey Room; and head upstairs to The Bullock, the sprawling mezzanine rooftop bar. Next door is Sports & Social, the year-old gaming parlor and sports lounge complete with a spacious, 300-seat outdoor plaza. The new kid on the block is Salt + Smoke: It boasts two levels, each with a bar and award-winning barbecue.
Kevin A. Roberts
STYLISH SOUTH EASTERN FARE
indo
Serious sushi is rare (no pun intended), but indo presents impressive versions, such as perfectly cut yellowtail and glistening fatty tuna. The restaurant matches that quality with Indonesian dishes, such as short rib curry and laarb. Splurge for a night of omakase that’s unmatched in the whole Midwest, then return for the fabulous Indonesian fare at one of St. Louis’ favorite new restaurants. 1641D Tower Grove.
CARIBBEAN CUISINE
Jerk Soul
Just a whiff of the food from this beautiful old Second Empire–style eatery is astounding. The cuisine is totally authentic and delicious: Jerk seasoning flavors chicken and salmon. Caribbean specialties—oxtails and saltfish—share a menu with some innovative dishes, such as jerk chicken pizza and Rasta Pasta. Sides, such as rice and beans and plantains, add to the charm. Top it off with banana pudding cheesecake. 3108 Cherokee.
Kevin A. Roberts
URBAN FARM STORE & CAFÉ
Have A Cow Cattle Company
It’s part upscale diner, part pastry shop/confectionary, and part rural boutique—with a butcher shop, inviting fireplace, and pleasant patio. Need a one-stop scrambled egg and bacon breakfast and an artisanal soap purchase? A stunningly good burger along with a weathervane? Have A Cow has you covered. 2742 Lafayette.
PERMANENT PIVOTS
The pandemic has spurred a pantry of noteworthy changes. Delivery and takeout found a new audience, and the quality of to-go orders was vastly improved. Likewise, to-go cocktails are now presented in jugs, jars, wax-topped bottles, and pouches. Another timely construct, so-called ghost kitchens materialized within existing restaurant kitchens and offered new products for delivery only. Restaurant owners installed pickup windows to provide contactless service while those with drive-thru windows often had to play traffic cop. Spurred by the popularity of 9 Mile Garden and requests for neighborhood visits, food trucks enjoyed a resurgence that will surely continue. The same goes for enhanced patios. It might be awhile before patrons are comfortable huddling shoulder to shoulder again, so generous table spacing will carry over, as will the ancillary benefit of lower ambient noise levels. The pandemic shined a light on the industry’s inequities, including wages and health care. And increased safety protocols and sanitation measures will be permanent. It’s hard to quibble with that.
A TASTE OF SOUTH AMERICA
Asador del Sur
Pair Daniel Gonzalez’s mastery of the grill with Maria Giamportone’s prowess with seafood, and you get Asador del Sur, the stunning Maplewood eatery that is a love song to their native Uruguayan and Ecuadorian cuisines. From their Maplewood storefront, the two offer a delicious taste of why they’re a perfect match. 7322 Manchester.
HEALTHY ADDITION
Beets & Bones
The concept started as a ghost kitchen inside Cottleville’s Upshot Coffee, but it has morphed into one of the area’s most thrilling brands. A lineup of cold-pressed juices is available at The Annex and Winslow’s Table, among other spots. A brick-and-mortar location, slated to open in Clayton this summer, will add healthy dishes and bone broths to the mix.
