Photo by George Mahe
Photo by George Mahe
Restaurant changes are afoot along Pershing Avenue in the DeBaliviere Place neighborhood. The West End Bistro (5513 Pershing), owned and operated by chef Kevin and Marion Green, is moving up the street to 255 Union, an expansive space with a huge, street-facing patio that a handful of restaurants have called home. The bistro (which closed on June 15), has been taken over by its former bartender, Mack Hill, who plans to open Mack’s Bar & Grill in early August.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
The Greens were successful at the Pershing Avenue address (formerly Pig & Pickle and Atlas before that)—maybe too successful. “We kept getting request after request for private parties and events,” explains Kevin, "and we had no space to make any of it happen.”
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
At West End Bistro, a 14-ounce ribeye with trimmings was reasonably priced at $32.
After attending Sullivan University’s culinary school and then the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York, Kevin worked at the St. Louis Club, St. Louis Country Club, Charlie Gitto’s on the Hill, and served as executive chef at Kreis’ before opening the bistro 14 months ago. He met Marion at the St. Louis Club, where she also worked.
The Greens opened quietly in May of last year and achieved their goal of creating a friendly neighborhood restaurant that serves quality American food with a global twist. SLM dining critic Dave Lowry praised its “uncomplicated, thoroughly satisfying fare,” and called West End Bistro “a worthy heir to the former Atlas space,” no easy achievement.
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
Lowry’s favorites included the crabcakes (lots of crab, scant filler), a risotto with slivers of crabmeat teamed with a half-dozen caramelized scallops, and a worthy gumbo. He described the Caesar salad as “simple, with salty, anchovy-fragrant dressing, Romaine leaves, and crispy fried onions in a filigree-fine bowl of baked Parmesan.” Pasta, steaks, sandwiches, soups (including that gumbo), and even bouillabaisse round out the bistro menu. And none of it is going to change, say the Greens. The same menu, plus a few additions, like a 14-ounce bone-in pork chop, will be offered in the new space.
Courtesy West End Bistro
Mack Hill
An unforgettable detail at West End Bistro was Marion and bartender Mack Hill dressed in black vests, starched white shirts and aprons, and gold ties. By all estimations, Hill, a retired pharmaceutical rep, is one of the most affable and hospitable bartenders in town. The West End Bistro was a place where everyone knew his name. And he’s not leaving. Hill has taken over the former location and plans to open it as Mack’s Bar & Grill in early August.
The 255 Union address is one of the most interesting (and prolific) for local restaurant historians. We first remember it from the '90s as a rockin’ joint called Turvey’s on the Green. Most recently, it was the latest iteration of The Kitchen Sink, which closed in 2016. Before that was Rhine Haus Eatery, Q's Sports Bar and Grill, The Excelsior Club, Tango Grill, Parkfront Grill, and one cheffed by Bernard Douteau and run by the ever-gracious Jimmy Kristo (now at Twisted Tree Steakhouse) called An American Brasserie. Somewhere along the line, a Victoria's Ice Cream parlor popped up in the space, all this in less than 30 years.
Photo by George Mahe
Making improvements to the main dining room at the new West End Bistro
Photo by George Mahe
The coffered ceiling above the bar
The two front rooms are bathed in natural light, which show off the ground floor’s many architectural details. One of the rooms contains a square bar, but will otherwise be used for general dining, says Marion. Besides switching the maroon trim color to a darker, richer brown, the Greens plan to let the rest of the intricate woodwork “just speak for itself.”
The three private rooms—the St. Louis Room (seats 8-10), the Lafayette Room (seats 10-20), and the Chateau Room (seats 50-60)—allow chef Green to get back to his roots. “I loved cooking for parties at the clubs…planning them, the spreads, the ice carvings,” he said. “They were all fun, and no two were ever the same.”
Photo by George Mahe
Photo by George Mahe
Outside (and a selling point for years), are the two patios that run the length of the building. The Greens plan to reopen West End Bistro (inside and out) by August 15, but realize that even without the indoor dining areas, the 100 alfresco seats could be considered a restaurant unto itself.
