This article is part of the “Best New Restaurants” feature in St. Louis Magazine‘s October 2017 issue.
We St. Louisans like our meat, and so Vicia, with its “vegetable celebration,” has had an uphill climb—which it’s tackled effortlessly. Meat’s not forbidden; it just appears as a talented bit player: a slice of smoked Berkshire pig, a restrained slab of roasted beef. Starring roles go to seasonal presentations in a revolving display of inventive, layered, complex vegetable dishes—turnip tacos, roasted mushrooms, charred cabbage. Sleek and airy, with angular glass walls and a bustling kitchen on full display, the place has an atmosphere of sophistication and relaxed cool, accentuated by the location, in the city’s high-tech district. A bar is nicely situated beside the dining area; it’s perfect for a quiet drink. Outdoor dining, beside a fireplace stove that figures prominently in the menu, is comfortable and spacious. Vicia has staked out a niche with a new, intriguing attitude and is a welcome addition to St. Louis dining.
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