Nearly 120 years ago, one could find the words “shrimp,” “ravioli,” “spaghetti,” and “fried chicken” on the windows of the restaurant at the corner of Piccadilly and Manhattan.
Built with balloon framing during its inception, in 1901, The Piccadilly at Manhattan has spanned three generations. It has survived so long operating at the same location (7201 Piccadilly in the Ellendale neighborhood) because of its family ownership and reliably good food, says 71-year-old former owner Nicholas Collida.
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Collida grew up with the Piccadilly at a time when his grandfather owned the restaurant and then passed the mantel to Collida’s father. After his father passed away, Collida and his wife, Maggie, took over the establishment. Nearly 20 years ago, in the mid-2000s, the two spruced up the place, adding bathrooms at the back end of the restaurant, a deck and covered patio, as well as new plumbing and electrical. “My joke was, ‘The building was 100 years old when we started to redo it, so now it’s going to be good for another 100 years,’” says Collida.
Black and white photos line the walls, showing the evolution of the building through the decades. The tabletops offer a glimpse into the Collidas’ lives and habits: One features vinyl LP records, another has a memory box full of ticket stubs to local sporting events. There’s a collage of wine bottle labels…and a collection of coozies (pictured at right).
The Piccadilly specializes in what Collida describes simply as “American comfort food”: fried chicken, meatloaf, salads, and barbecue, including St. Louis–style ribs and pork steaks.
The bestseller is the chicken pot pie, which Collida and his wife added to the menu. During the pandemic, the restaurant has offered four to five daily specials, including a popular short rib pot pie, as well as seafood pot pie on Fridays.
The current owner is Collida’s daughter, Molly, who also oversees daily operations, including curbside, carryout, and limited indoor seating. After growing up in a restaurant family and spending time in corporate chains, she’s been complimented by customers on her versatility bussing tables, talking to customers, and working with the smoker—all while carrying on a family tradition.
“I have learned to work well with my parents,” says Molly, “and that I am lucky to be able to do so.”
