Talk about timing: Just a week before Cinco de Mayo, Rosalita’s Cantina in Des Peres is opening today. Located in Des Peres Square, at the southwest corner of Manchester and I-270, it marks the popular Mexican restaurant’s second location—and the first project beyond downtown for McGowan Brothers Development.
“The Des Peres store will be the test kitchen for all the Rosalita’s locations,” says principal Tim McGowan. Another location is likely within the year, he adds, and “six or eight or 10 are possible.”
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The Des Peres location is years in the making (as first reported by SLM). “It took two and a half years to conceive and acquire and the same amount to build—at least,” Joshua Wells, director of restaurant operations, says of the 10,000-square-foot space. Along the way, the team paid attention to every detail, from the atmosphere to the drinks to the menu.
The Atmosphere
At one time, the space housed another Mexican restaurant, Casa Gallardo, though the interior’s now far different. “We had to completely redo the building and then added onto it,” says Wells. “People might recognize the skylights and beamed ceiling and lobby chandelier, but that’s all that’s left to recognize.”
The former step-down floor and stone fountain are gone, as is the plethora of tchotchkes. In their place is a lively, tasteful interior, designed by Castle Design’s Lori McElvain, the creative mind behind Lucas Park Grill and Blondie’s, which are also owned by the McGowan family.
Ten large booths, some with blooming pink jasmine overhead, bookend the main dining room. McElvain describes the booths’ upholstery “complimentary but mismatched, which makes any replacement effortless—and in a restaurant, there’s always going to be replacement.” The eye-fetching tabletops are the result of an acid-washed, micro-thin copper film covered with epoxy resin; the same process is used on the bar top. “It makes you want to touch the texture,” says Wells. “I’ve never seen another finish like it.”
Mexican star lights hang above the U-shaped bar, as does an iron cage. Look closely to see a rose detail, repeated throughout the restaurant. Reservable booths overlooking the 75-seat bar “will be the first to fill up,” predicts Wells. “They’re the most popular seats downtown.”
Two ancillary rooms placed on the perimeters mean the restaurant can look busy even when all of its 220 seats are not filled. The Matador Room (seating 60 to 80) can be closed off via heavy barnwood doors. The Franciscan Room (seating 40 to 50) utilizes a floor-to-ceiling curtain to achieve the same effect.
Adding to the rustic vibe is southern Missouri barnwood—six barn’s worth, according to Wells: “We could have bought the wood outright, but it was more fun cruising the countryside and making offers. Many of the barns were already laying down, so a lot of the wood has that 100-year-old, sun-aged gray texture, which we left completely alone.”
Another notable interior feature: two Blessed Mother statues. When religious items were suggested as part of the décor at the downtown location, a manager’s parents involved in St. Cecilia’s parish suggested a statue of Mother Mary. “When donations followed—which we didn’t expect—we gave it all to the parish and still do,” says McGowan. “In Des Peres, we’ll probably give some of those donations to worthy causes.”
Perhaps the most dramatic feature, though, is the 3,000-square-foot patio, which seats up to 150. “Our goal was to assemble several different areas, each one as appealing as the next.” Wells says. Seating options include high-top tables, booths, benches, and soft seating around a fireplace. Focal points include two reservable, mirror-image cabanas outfitted with ceiling fans and heaters.
The open-air bar features a giant trough for icing the beer, including the respective Coronas and Modelos, Sol, Pacifico, Tecate, mainstream domestics, and three IPAs that have become popular at the downtown location.
Underfoot are concrete floors stamped with a pattern of Mexican tile. Overhead are infrared radiant tube heaters, so powerful they warm the seat cushions, and a three-section louvered roof—the second in the region.
The team at Rosalita’s took the extra step when planning for weather extremes: There are glycol heaters buried in the entry sidewalks and a huge porte cochere for drop-offs and pick-ups. (Valet service is available on Friday and Saturday evenings to start.)
The Drinks
The margarita program is the same as at the flagship, with a few exceptions. There’s citrus rum in the maragarita mix, just like at the downtown location, but the house tequila in Des Peres is El Jimador, rather than Jose Cuervo. “Some pre-mixed margaritas use Cuervo, and we don’t want people to jump to conclusions because we make our margaritas in house at both locations,” says bar manager David Sherman. “El Jimador doesn’t make a mixed product.”
Of note are the specialty flavored margaritas—mango, pomegranate, and blueberry—and three varieties that come with add-in “floaters”: bottles of Korbel, Corona, or Remy 1738 clipped to the glass. Look for a new rosé-colored tequila, Código 1530 Rosa, aged in Napa Cabernet French white oak barrels, and try to detect the back note of wine. Ultra-premium tequilas are becoming increasingly popular, despite their hefty price tag; here, five varieties aged five years or more (and ranging in price from $22 to $45 per shot) are showcased in their cases on a literal “top” shelf, placed above the bar.
Sherman expanded the wine program, too. “We don’t sell much wine at the downtown location,” he says, “but that could easily change here.”
The Food
The menu includes both Tex-Mex standards and house favorites. Executive chef Jesse Mayer had added a grilled, marinated 8-ounce sirloin (carne con cerveza), an appetizer that could double as a light entrée. But the most notable additions are the four Rosalita’s Specialties on the Des Peres menu. There’s a sweet tea-brined and buttermilk-battered fried quail, atop bourbon jalapeño creamed corn. Mayer reports that quail is a common Tex-Mex dish, but rarely sees it on menus outside Texas. “Then again, so is antelope,” he adds, “but we’ll have to see about that one.” The chef would also like to experiment with other unfamiliar Tex-Mex items, possibly including Malibu-brined suckling pig.
Shrimp Diablo consists of six large shrimp, sautéed in a spicy butter sauce with creamy succotash atop a fried masa cake, made using chipotle black beans and masa dough—essentially like a gordita or arepa.
Ancho Beef Tenderloin shows a cascade of sliced, marinated teres major (a.k.a. petite tenderloin) over a fried plaintain croquette—“a common breakfast staple in Ecuador,” says Mayer. There’s also some chimichurri to cut through the butter sauce.
The Pepita Crusted Salmon includes a fillet “coated with some buzzed-up pumpkin seeds” served over a butternut squash hash and citrus guacamole.
Mainstay items, such as Oaxacan Grouper (seared, with habañero salsa—a steal at $22), Coconut Shrimp, and bestseller Cadillac Fajitas ($24, but enough to share), will remain on the menu. Table-side guacamole, a weekend-only offering at the flagship location, will be available daily in Des Peres.
The dessert menu is entirely new, save for the ever-popular churros. All of the sweets are priced at $7. The Sopapilla Cheesecake is topped with Serendipity’s cheesecake ice cream.
Lime Panna Cotta, garnished with candied line peels, is the lightest of the desserts.
A food truck is also slated to roll out this summer. “Whether it will be active every day or just used for special events remains to be seen,” says Mayer. “Having a marketing vehicle like that, so to speak, is invaluable at this stage of the game.”
