Courtesy Rockwell Brewing
Photo by George Mahe
Even before Rockwell Beer Co. opened its craft brewery just east of The Grove three years ago, the boldly painted exterior—partly cobbled together from former shipping containers—garnered deserved attention. Guests were also treated to BrassWELL, a concept within a concept (tucked inside its own shipping container), featuring burgers, brats, and beignets from acclaimed chef Gerard Craft’s Niche Food Group.
Now, a sister concept—Rockwell Beer Garden—is set to debut this Friday, October 22, in Francis Park, and locals will be tossing out superlatives once again.
Rockwell Beer Garden (or RBG, as it's already being called) is the first local brewery to open a satellite facility in a St. Louis public park, the first to reimagine a 1920s-era stone “comfort station” building as a three-season food and beverage operation, and the first to hire a fine dining chef as its culinary director.
Courtesy Rockwell Brewing
Sitting below grade and nestled among the trees in the 60-acre park in St. Louis Hills, RBG looks like it’s been there for decades as well.
"It’s important that our customers see and feel the park as it is,” says co-founder James Sanders, who lives in the neighborhood. “These parks are gems, and this is an important one.”
The beer garden is adjacent to recently resurfaced tennis courts and recently installed pickleball courts. A perimeter landscape fence was created using indigenous materials, which will grow into what Sanders calls “a park within a park” to help define the space while not confining it.
Courtesy Rockwell Beer Garden
A rendering of Rockwell Beer Garden at night.
The existing building was freshened up, and its bathrooms were improved. A concrete patio with multiple firepits now wraps around the building, which is partially obscured by natural and fabricated shade. Special attention was given to lighting and sound abatement as well. Pole-mounted heaters and fans were installed to prolong patio season. Weather permitting, the beer garden will be open into December.
At the outset, the principals thought it best to proceed cautiously, since it was such an unusual and ambitious project. Sanders “ran all the necessary traps,” as he put it, garnering aldermanic support and filing the RPF and liquor applications. He and his wife, Heather, consulted with neighbors and park users to ensure the look and feel were appropriate and that the environment was safe and accommodating for all.
Rockwell co-founder Chris Hulse sums up the project by saying, “Our idea was to reactivate parks as community spaces in general and, in this specific case, have the anchor be a family-centric beer garden.”
Photo by George Mahe
Rockwell Margarita Pizza at Rockwell Beer Garden
The beverage options call for beer, of course, and then some. A dozen taps will eventually include both Rockwell and guest beers, a draft cocktail, several wines, and possibly a cold brew—all served to guests in glass containers, no less—along with fountain drinks. (There will be no cans, bottles, or package beer sales.)
As appealing and wide-ranging as Rockwell’s beers are, it’s the food component that might be the most unusual, considering one of the city’s foremost fine dining chefs was enlisted to lead the charge. Michael Petres’ resume includes stints at The Ritz-Carlton St. Louis, Balaban’s, ARAKA, and Terrene, as well as Niche Food Group, where he spent a decade, eventually rising to corporate executive chef and overseeing the company’s five culinary operations.
Courtesy Spencer Pernikoff
Supreme Pizza at Rockwell Beer Garden
At RBG, the menu revolves around a “tavern-style” pizza, with a crust made with naturally leavened dough (as opposed to St. Louis–style, which uses baking powder as the leavening agent). The resulting crust is more crispy than chewy, with toppings that run near the edge, to allow for some bubbling and charring.
The inaugural menu—categorized as “Pizza” and “Not Pizza”—includes the Rockwell Margarita (standard issue toppings), Pepperoni Plus (the “plus” connoting extra pepperoni and yellow onions), The Brockwell (with charred broccoli and sweet peppers), and The Supreme (with pepperoni, fennel sausage, onion, and sweet peppers); all of the options are topped with mozzarella cheese. A seasonal pie dubbed Corn & Tomato is topped with corn, cherry tomatoes, onion, basil, and fresh mozz.
Non-pizza offerings include Pizza Bread, Chickpea Dip (with fresh veggies and pizza bread or tortilla chips), Spinach and Artichoke Dip, and a Chopped Salad in two sizes. Also on the menu but not available until next week are Baked Chicken Wings (with fresh veggies and ranch), Roasted Veggies (with parmesan, chili, and lemon), and Nachos (with our without chicken.)
Photo by George Mahe
Pizza is the perfect walkaround food and something that a chef can easily build upon, Petres previously told SLM. “We all know that pizza and beer is a natural. It’s my job to make sure the rest of the menu sets us apart.”
In its own subtle way, Rockwell Beer Garden is more than a second location. Instead, think of it as a new way to dine, drink, and be entertained in a public park in one of the city’s best known neighborhoods.
RBG will initially be open Thursday through Sunday. Days and hours will be posted weekly on Rockwell's social media and website.
