Let us hark back to a simpler time, a time when political discourse could take place in more than 140-character bursts, a time when political discourse still existed. In those days, you’d find political bosses, business moguls, and common folk rubbing elbows at casual restaurants and watering holes, such places as Roscoe McCrary’s, Thurmer’s, Beffa’s, and the dining hall at St. Raymond’s. The discussions sometimes escalated into fierce arguments, but eventually the combatants found middle ground or agreed to disagree—then split a slab of ribs or order of kibbeh and raised a beer.
The Royale is the spiritual successor to that brand of establishment, and Steven Fitzpatrick Smith is its godfather. Rather than sending you to sleep with the fishes, he’s more likely to tout his fish tacos—and then give you the backstory of The Great St. Louis Bank Robbery, with its movie poster as a backdrop. In part because of the walk-in closet that pretends to be a kitchen space, Smith has steadily changed the menu over the past 12 years. Last year, he revamped the kitchen and followed up with an overhaul of the menu that made it more small plates–driven and veggie-forward.
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Now you can get a plant-based pulled Jamaican jerk that incorporates jackfruit. (It’s still available in a chicken version.) As with everything we sampled, presentation matters; in this case, the mango and red and green peppers added vibrancy. Salads showcase a mesclun mix of interesting shapes and shades of green.
And though vegetables have come closer to center stage, there’s still plenty of meat. Those fish tacos are now joined by tacos al pastor, soft tortillas containing shredded pork, pineapple, avocado cream, and julienned radishes. The Griddle Burger is an unabashed celebration of carnivorism: A half-pound of ground beef is pressed into two patties, then smashed on the griddle à la Carl’s Drive In for crisp yet succulent edges and topped with copious cheddar cheese and bacon. It’s all plopped on a brioche bun, the only nod to gentrification of a classic burger.
That’s appropriate, considering that although many of the surrounding homes and commercial buildings have been improved, the gentry has made only a limited impact. Similarly, even with the food’s upgrades, you can’t call The Royale a gastropub. (Nonetheless, there is an extensive drink menu, with a number of local brews and craft cocktails.) The South City institution remains a civilized place to grab a bite, sip a beer, and discuss politics.
The Bottom Line: Even with a touch more foodie-ism on the new menu, it’s still the same ol’ Royale.
