Taco Circus relocates to a larger, kitschy space in Southwest Garden

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Tacos: al pastor, skirt steak, and breaded swai

Over the past four years, Taco Circus has amassed a loyal following of regulars who’ve come to appreciate owner Christian Ethridge’s colorful approach of serving up Austin-style Tex-Mex in a cheeky atmosphere. So when the restaurant outgrew its original counter-service taqueria in the Bevo neighborhood, Ethridge recently opened a full-service location—with an expanded menu, a bar program, and a tree-shaded  patio—in the former Three Flags Tavern space in Southwest Garden.

Greeting you near the entrance of the new location is a giant Homer Simpson statue. Homer’s missing one of his original hands, but he’s been outfitted with a small doll hand. The windows running along the front are obscured by a riot of secondhand ceramic planters, each holding a cactus, succulent, or houseplant. The wall colors and framed art lean toward the psychedelic in both of the dining rooms, which seat about 120. 

Homer’s side of the restaurant includes a large bar, where a selection of specialty margaritas and house-made horchata is on offer. The Purple Margarita, a potent concoction of over-proof tequila, rum, lemon, sugar, and purple cassis, delivers a sweet and heady kick. Paired with chips and salsa, it’s a novel and effective way to whet an appetite.

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Photography by Kevin A. Roberts

Street Corn

The appetizer of esquites, or street corn, is considerately broken into manageable pieces. The sweet, charred kernels pop with juice after being fire-roasted and then smeared with mayo, sour cream, chilis, and a squeeze of lime.

The flight of salsas is easy to overlook, but it’s a cache of big, dynamic flavors. Ethridge notes  the four salsas are a point of pride for the kitchen, providing a way for each of his chefs to flex some culinary muscle. A spicy arbol rojo adds bright, vinegary notes and an earthy, balanced richness. The rustic salsa macha combines nuts and a variety of dried chilis. Each salsa is not only distinct but also compelling in its own way.

Taco Circus’ primary focus has always been the adept preparation of the meats offered in the burritos, fajita platters, and tacos. The tender grilled chicken thigh al carbon, marinated pork al pastor, and smoky grilled skirt steak make up the foundation of the menu, along with vegan Match Meat picadillo and batter-fried swai. The popular pork steak carnitas is a shining example of interpreting local and familiar ingredients in a fresh way. Pork steak is marinated with spices, oregano, and black pepper and slow-cooked until the meat almost collapses, yet not so long that all of the deeply flavorful fat is rendered away. The result: juicy meat with a porcine richness that’s surprisingly light and flavor-packed yet doesn’t feel greasy.

Taco Circus radiates exuberance, wrapping diners in its funky charms while doling out copious quantities of thoughtfully prepared Tex-Mex comfort food.