BaiKu Sushi Lounge ends, and the Hotel Ignacio’s lobby begins—well—perhaps somewhere in the sleek fireplace-equipped salon they share. If you aren’t careful, you might wander right into Triumph Grill next door. The spaces meld, flow, and connect.
We’re here for BaiKu, though. We’re here for sushi and the culinary world’s dreaded F-word: fusion. It’s good to hear that the restaurant is out of some fish—that means the chef is insistent on quality from day to day—but it’s unfortunate to hear they’re out of tempura vegetables, save asparagus. It’s grand to see arguably the best sake list in town—but depressing to see the drinks served in wineglasses.
Find the best food in St. Louis
Subscribe to the St. Louis Dining In and Dining Out newsletters to stay up-to-date on the local restaurant and culinary scene.
Appetizers set the pace. BaiKu is less sushi place, more pan-Asian. The “yakitori” is pure Korean; chicken is marinated in spicy ssamjang, grilled, and wrapped in Bibb lettuce leaves. It’s delicious with a kimchi purée. Tiradito is Peruvian, with slices of sweet raw yellowtail topped with jalapeño rings and black flying fish eggs.
Saimin and poke are both Hawaiian classics. They’re interpreted here as well as T-ravs might be rendered in Kaneohe, which is to say “different”— but not bad. Saimin noodles are replaced with fresh ramen and loaded with chunks of roasted char siu pork, emerald bok choy leaves, and meaty shiitake slivers. Poke—think of it as a ceviche salad—is unusually served with chopped nappa cabbage instead of the more typical rice. It’s a faithful rendition, raw tuna cubes splashed with soy sauce and sesame-seed oil, with a touch of heat provided by togarashi chilies.
Tempura-fried dishes show a competent hand. Squid squiggles have a crispy coating. The asparagus spears we tried were perfectly tender, crunchy in golden robes. Both came with a creamy wasabi-spiked aioli. Fried rice is also a substantial meal. A mound of stir-fried rice with vegetables is nicely dressed with a thick sauce of hoisin, ginger, and scallions.
Sushi is competently prepared. There are the usual wildly stuffed, imaginatively named rolls, along with about 20 toppings for nigiri bites. The quality of fish is decidedly excellent; consider beginning a meal with a sashimi course.
BaiKu has a Miami Vice vibe, with pastel lights. The baiku (Japanese for “bike”) theme is more subtle than at the adjoining Triumph Grill. A 3-D frieze of motorcycle parts decorates one wall. The restroom area is officially the coolest in St. Louis. BaiKu is a romantic spot, but conversation can be difficult as the night goes on and the music grows louder. Consider the lobby—you know, where the hotel, Triumph Grill, and BaiKu merge.
The Bottom Line: Sushi meets swank in an upscale lounge serving attractive pan-Asian dishes.
