Review – Off The Vine

To paraphrase Risky Business’s Princeton recruiter: St. Louis could use a restaurant like Off the Vine. In an atmosphere that’s comfortable and upscale, inviting and competent, a limited, well-crafted menu results in an enjoyable dinner experience.

The space is small and oddly shaped and has housed several other restaurants (once a Dairy Queen; more recently the first Blue Water Grill). The kitchen is separated from the dining area by both a tiny bar and a cold case where tempting desserts are displayed deli-style. Along with a free-standing fireplace near the room’s center, tables are crowded together on a concrete floor; the effect is far less claustrophobic than it is convivial. A cozy private room is adjacent, though it lacks the proper bistro atmosphere and the big windows that contribute much to the place’s ambience.

Appetizers arrived in a timely manner. “Heart” doesn’t get matched with “Soul” as nicely as shrimp go with grits. Here, a pillow of grits, laced with white cheddar, was arranged with shrimp the size of Pisa Tinoisamoa’s thumb, then ladled with a carmine, wood smoke–scented barbecue sauce—this is a knockout starter. Share the flatbread, a generous, platter-sized pizza loaded with tender, sweet roasted apples, scallions, prosciutto slivers and a gooey blanket of mozzarella. Braised short ribs were gristly and fatty, more’s the pity, because the pungent wine-and-stock reduction in which they were served—studded with savory garlic slices and olives—was superb, as was the fragrant risotto flecked with Italian parsley that accompanied them. Gumbo worked well as a starter here, the roux chocolate-dark and stocked with floating chunks of andouille sausage and tender, chewy marbles of arancini rice balls. The latter was a welcome, delicious nod to the oft-overlooked contributions of Italian immigrants to New Orleans cuisine. A Caesar salad was creditable, flaked with grated Parmesan and scattered with garlic croutons.

True to the bistro approach, there are little more than a half-dozen main courses here, along with one or two specials. Roasted chicken is a bistro staple. At Off the Vine, a breast was beautifully rendered, the meat juicy, full of flavor and served alongside whipped potatoes. The entire dish benefited greatly from an outstanding sauce of caramelized onions and meat juices. The tagliatelle bolognese was a quality rendition, refreshingly true to its culinary roots. The ragu had just a hint of tomatoes, as it should, and the tastes and textures of onion, carrots and celery played backup to the ground beef, all perfectly tossed with the broad ribbons of tagliatelle. This dish would pass muster in any eatery in Bologna.

Off the Vine’s pork tenderloin wrapped in bacon was an instant sensation and with good reason, the lean loin absorbing the porky goodness of the bacon. The tenderloin played well with tart apple fritters and cabbage braised in cider. Do not neglect the other carnivore offerings, however. A dollop of butter swirled with roasted garlic and parsley is a pleasant addition to the hanger steak, which would have been fine even without it. Frites were suitably crispy, starchy and salty. A side of spinach creamed was butter-smooth, all its mineral and herb flavors intact. A flat iron steak is also offered, accompanied by a fontina-and-potato casserole and a house-made steak sauce.

You know how we think any Joan Chen movie is a good one? We feel much the same about duck confit. A chef who takes the time for this labor-intensive dish is almost always likely to take the care as well to get it right, we’ve found. The rich, moist meat tumbled off the thigh and leg here, the skin crispy and tanned. A cake of herbed “pudding” alongside tasted like Thanksgiving dressing; it complemented the duck nicely, as did a side of roasted celery heart, glistening with a happily unctuous blood-orange vinaigrette.

Crepes stuffed with creamy ripe banana slices and Nutella were inspired as a dessert. Plan to share an order; they are potent. A fluffy Key lime cheesecake on a graham cracker crust was suitably decadent. We capped the evening in civilized fashion with a thimble of tawny port—never a bad choice— but note that Off the Vine carries De Bortoli’s Botrytis Semillon. It’s a magnificently thick, sweet wine that’s citrusy, peachy—even almondish. The flavor is complex, the result of a fungus that attacks and shrivels the grapes (boosting their sugar content) and a fermentation process more temperamental than a runway model on a badhair day.

The wine list isn’t ponderous, but a large selection of wines served by the glass (cartoonishly large glasses, mind you) is a bargain for smaller parties. Bottles dominate an entire wall, and even a passing glance indicates some care has gone into the selection. (Pay attention when a restaurant offers a selection of zinfandels. With quality as capricious as Madonna’s next fashion move, a place stocking worthwhile “zins” is usually one on top of its wine game.) A felicitous price range lists vintages from the affordable to the near-preposterous. On the sane end of the scale, consider Don Rodolfo’s take on the Malbec, a so-so grape that blossomed wonderfully when planted in Argentina, producing a wine that’s perfect for meat-and-tomato sauces.

Service here is noteworthy. Professional, well timed and polite, the staff manages with seeming effortlessness to be friendly without becoming intrusive. Also worthy of note: There are living rooms larger than the parking lot. If you’re behind the wheel of anything bigger than a clown car, seek a better space on nearby side streets. Or, like our editor, just have your driver drop you off with instructions for him to get the Bentley washed and waxed as you dine.

Off The Vine

Address: 2605 Hampton

Phone: 314-781-1620

Website: offthevinestl.com

Average Main Course: $16

Reservations: Mais oui

Dress: Spice. You know, “sporty” combined with “nice”

Bottom Line: A neighborhood bistro with a first-rate kitchen in happy, companionable surroundings