Original J’s Tex-Mex & Barbecue now open in University City

After a brief soft opening over the weekend, Mike and Liz Randolph quietly opened Original J's Tex-Mex & Barbecue yesterday. The restaurant is the couple’s tribute to Texas-style barbecue, known for its signature low-and-slow cooking method, choice of fuel (100 percent post oak wood), and use of simple seasonings (“salt, pepper, and not a whole lot else,” says Mike).

The Randolphs wanted the look and vibe to conjure the come-as-you-are restaurants of yesteryear: tongue-in-groove wood planks, vinyl booths with wipeable blue-checkered tablecloths, mismatched tiffany shades, and just the right amount of framed odds and ends from a generation or two ago. 

There are subtle differences, though: Outside, a red-and-white block-letter sign is illuminated with bold lighting, not the fuzzy incandescents of yesteryear. Inside, peek-a-boo steel panels lend an air of division and civility to the otherwise open room, obscuring a line of waiting patrons.

The space previously housed two pizza restaurants, Imo’s and Fortel’s, and Randolph was the chef who introduced Neapolitan pizza to St. Louis at The Good Pie. But pizza was not to be the genre this time around. Having traveled through Texas, the Randolphs wanted to explore the cuisine they discovered there and decided on Tex-Mex with a side of smoky barbecue (or was it vice-versa)?

Part of the magic is Randolph’s choice of smoker, a gas-assisted “stick burner.” Myron Mixon, known as the "winningest man in competition barbecue," designed it and added a patented waterpan beneath the firebox, which helps keep the meat moist throughout the cooking process. Juicy platters of brisket, barbacoa, mixed hog (long cut shoulder), and pulled chicken are served with flour tortillas and two sides. The side dishes are typical of what one might expect from the chef-owner of the late Medianoche and Público: fried maduro plantains with sour cream, cheesy hominy, and such items as vinaigrette-dressed kale, cucumbers with pepita pesto, and tomato with smoked mozzarella.

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Photo by George Mahe

Fair warning: There's another layer of "spicy spares" in the half slab. Full slabs and 3-bone portions are available as well.

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Courtesy Original J's

The platos (carnitas, dark chicken mole, barbacoa, chicken enchiladas) come with Randolph’s riff on beans and rice (borracho and cilantro, respectively), and the tacos (around $9 for two) come in eight varieties. (The smoked wings, sauced with lime, agave, and arbol pepper, have been an early favorite.) The universal drink pairing—a frozen margarita—also includes its chilly cousin: froze.

Original J’s hopes to attract sports teams and families with a four item kids menu that wisely includes a cup of ice cream. And an in-house claw machine is sure to attract its share of youngsters. (As Liz Randolph says, “Once our kids find out a restaurant has a claw machine, that’s it—we’re there.")

The choice of music was important to Randolph, a longtime fan of country. “But we’ll only be playing ‘good’ country,” he says.  “So far today, it’s been George Strait…and it might be George Strait all day long." Playing during our visit was what could become Original J's signature tune, Strait’s toe-tappin’ cover of Texas Cookin’: “Oh, mama, ain’t that Texas cookin’ good/ Oh, mama, eat it every day if I could.”

Inaugural hours are 11 a.m.–3 p.m. except for Thursday. Open hours will be expanded slowly beginning next week.