A stroll down historic Main Street in St. Charles is to be immersed in a kind of architectural arcadia. It’s a trove of 19th-century buildings that’s unequaled anywhere in the Midwest. Bars and casual eateries stud the cobblestone street, but there are also upscale dining spots, such as the lovely Tomkins by Rackhouse.
Novellus recently joined the fun—yes, recently, during the COVID-19 pandemic. “We thought it was a good challenge,” says co-owner Joe Ancmon. His partner is Jo Otey, a data and artificial intelligence specialist for Microsoft who also crunches consumer data for corporations, including major food distributors and, under getfoodienow.com, analyzes data for restaurants.
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At Novellus, the choice of menu items, their placement on the menu, and the pricing are all based on Otey’s belief in using restaurant data and making it “consumable.” The industry “was providing vitamins when it needed medicine,” he says.
His validation: In its first month, Novellus’ business grew exponentially, as did the average check.
Otey’s data led the team to adopt a small plates model, which remains popular despite its ubiquity. At Novellus, it helps that service is swift, so you can order in stages without waiting forever. The prices are also affordable (both features also driven by analytics). You’ll likely want to order at least a couple items for a light dinner. Otherwise, get things going and then see how much of the menu you can work your way through until you’re satisfied.
As for that menu, how do you describe one that includes poke and Buffalo chicken flatbread? “Sundry?” Well, it is that.
Salads and flatbreads are fine starters. The house salad’s loaded with delicate greens, jicama and orange slices, and toasted pumpkin, dressed in a pucker-licious citrus vinaigrette. The chicken Florentine—a long flatbread shingle topped with roasted chicken, a cheesy cream sauce, rosemary, fresh spinach, and cherry tomatoes—has the right combinations of textures and flavors. More robust is the same crunchy bread with the same chicken chunks, spiked with a Buffalo sauce, red onion slivers, and the hot fudge of the flatbread topping world: a blue cheese drizzle that makes everything better. Four diners should be able to work their way through most offerings here, but you’ll be distracted. “OK, let’s get one of the flatbreads next time. For now, we’ve gotta go with another order of truffle chips.”
And you will want to get another order of those chips, spritzed with truffle oil (yes, only ranch is a more overused ingredient in dining, but that oil is great here) and fairy-dusted with Parmesan. They’re rich, salty, crunchy, beguilingly aromatic. If you’re in the mood for just a beer and snacks, try one of the brews on tap at Novellus and a plate of these chips, and you’ll have a splendid evening.
The chicken pot pie is beautiful but difficult to share; the filling is a bit too soupy. Otherwise, the rosemary-scented dish, topped with a flaky golden-brown crust, is superb. Deep-fried Brussels sprouts aren’t battered—it’s just the little green spheres, dropped into hot oil and spattered with balsamic vinegar—their vegetal texture remains tender. Also getting the deep-fried treatment are vegetables: green beans, zucchini, wild mushrooms, and what’s described as tempura but is actually more like the batter for fried onion rings. The tzatziki dip is tangy; it’s another nice dish for sharing.
Crème brûlée and bread pudding are the only listed desserts. Amble over near the front door, however, to a case loaded with cheesecake, cupcakes, and cookies. And don’t neglect the cocktail list: Death and Taxes, The Sun Also Rises, Beloved; the solidly crafted drinks (all $12) add much to the enjoyment.
The interior is wide open, with high ceilings, brick walls, and spaced tables. Bookshelves serve as unique “walls.” It’s the typical brick wall/tin ceiling look that’s now ubiquitous in restaurants, with a comfortable bar and windows facing the street, an ideal vantage point for people watching.
With its rich history, old Main Street just has a certain sort of magic. Thanks to such places as Novellus, it’s also a place for some delightful dining.
