Photography by Kevin A. Roberts
The tacos at Taqueria Durango
Angelo’s Pizzeria
Pizza. If you have a hankering for a thin-crust pizza with bubbly edges, toppings from side to side, and a cheese that’s not 100 percent Provel, then this longtime North County joint gets the call. Some say it’s the best pizza in town. Plus it’s cooked in a square pan, so the pie perfectly fits in a square pizza box. What a concept! Lunch and dinner Tue–Sun. 4814 Parker, 314-355-3242. $–$$
Cathy’s Kitchen
American. The food at this upbeat restaurant pingpongs across the map. Insider favorites like Memphis-style gumbo, Texas chicken wings, and New Mexican fish tacos keep folks coming back. Save room for Cathy Jenkins’ homemade Dutch apple pie. Motown’s on the airwaves, and you’re traveling with the Jenkins family. Enjoy. Breakfast, lunch & dinner Mon–Sat. 250 S. Florissant, 314-524-9200, cjenkinscompany.com. $
Celebrity Southern Soul Food
Soul Food. Of the many reasons to visit Ferguson, this place is near the top of the list. Cafeteria-style helpings of cornbread, meatloaf, and caramel cake are served in a pleasant storefront where it always seems like church has just let out and the whole family’s gathered for a great meal. Here you’ll find the best sweet tea in town. Lunch & dinner Tue–Sun. 103 N. Harvey, 314-521-0310, celebritysoulfood.com. $
Charlie Gitto’s
Italian. Classic Italian simultaneously accommodates dressing up and dressing down. The Shrimp Diavolo is a culinary wonder, and Nunzio—as in Gitto’s signature veal dish—is apparently Italian for Oscar. Dinner daily. Hollywood Casino, 314-770-7663; charliegittos.com. $$$
Chef Ma’s Chinese Gourmet Restaurant
Chinese. Huai? (Bad?) You might eat off Styrofoam and struggle with a handwritten menu with the good stuff in untranslated Chinese. Hao? (Good?) Chef Ma’s is the most startlingly authentic Chinese eatery in town. Incredible, delicious fare, like twice coconut pork and Hakka-style fried rice. Lunch and dinner daily. 2336 Woodson, 314-395-8797. $$
Cork Wine Bar
Wine Bar. Several wine options are offered at controlled temperatures for optimal tasting. A menu of small plates designed for sharing is organized as “hot,” “cold,” and “snacks.” Sample fondue, veal short ribs, or popcorn. The lobster and grits and bacon hash pair perfectly, no matter the selection. Dinner Tue–Sun. 423 S. Florissant, 314-521-9463, corkferguson.com. $$
Crown Candy Kitchen
American. This St. Louis institution has been serving up house-made chocolate candy and ice cream since 1913. Master the Crown Candy Challenge by drinking five malted milkshakes in less than 30 minutes, and you’ll have your name added to a plaque bearing the names of just 22 other winners. The Heart Stopping BLT features almost a pound of kettle-cooked bacon. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. 1401 St. Louis, 314-621-9650, crowncandykitchen.net. $
Cugino’s Italian Bar and Grill
Italian. The partners are cousins (cuginos), and the fare ranges from St. Louis-style pizza to classic Italian, plus a large selection of sandwiches and burgers. In addition to the 50-plus beers on tap, Narrow Gauge Brewing Company plans to set up operations inside the restaurant in mid-2016, with hopes of selling its four beers (including a Coconut Porter) exclusively onsite. Lunch and dinner daily. 1595 N. Highway 67, 314-831-3222, dinecuginos.com. $$
Drunken Fish
Japanese/Sushi. Located in Maryland Heights, the Westport Plaza location is the flagship of this popular, locally owned, six-unit sushi chain. Though sushi gets the most attention, consider the donburi, bowls filled with rice and generous toppings of chicken or fish. Lunch mon–fri, dinner daily. Go online for locations, drunkenfish.com. $$–$$$
Ferguson Brewing Company
Bar & Grill. North County’s first brewpub offers beer-friendly foods, such as brats, soft pretzels, and a hearty beer-cheese soup. Try the smoked chicken wings—a full pound. You’ll also find eight brews on tap, as well as seasonal selections. Lunch and dinner daily. 418 S. Florissant, 314-254-7359, fergusonbrewing.com. $$
Ferguson Burger Bar
American. Try the Garbage Burger, complete with bacon and an egg. Or chow down on fried tripe, served on white bread with onion, pickle, hot sauce, and mustard. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner Mon–Sat. 9120 W. Florissant, 314-388-0424, fergusonburgerbar.com. $
Goody Goody Diner
Diner. Opened in 1948, this spanking-clean diner delivers with fried chicken and Belgian waffles and eggs cooked to order 12 ways. Named one of “America’s Best Diners” by Travel + Leisure, Goody Goody sticks to its roots. Breakfast and lunch daily. 5900 Natural Bridge, 314-383-3333, goodygoodydiner.com. $
Hendel’s Restaurant & Market
American. This family-owned restaurant is housed in a historic brick building with a covered porch and ivy-draped brick courtyard. Many come for the steak—USDA Choice beef, aged at least 21 days. The signature Louisiana-style crab cakes are served with a tobacco-onion remoulade. If you’re there for brunch, grab a mimosa for $2.25. Lunch & dinner Tue–Sat, brunch Sun. 599 St. Denis, 314-837-2304, hendelsrestaurant.com. $$
India Palace
Northern Indian. Many dine here for the setting alone, with its top-floor view of planes at Lambert–St. Louis International Airport. The menu offers some of the best Indian cuisine around. The spicy lamb vindaloo and flavorful chicken tikka masala are outstanding. White linen tablecloths, Polynesian décor, and wall-to-wall carpeting provide a casually elegant dining experience. Lunch buffet & dinner daily. 4334 N. Lindbergh, 314-731-3333, indiapalaceairport.com. $$
Kaslik Mediterranean Cuisine
Mediterranean. Thank owner-chef Wasem Hamed (of Layla and Ranoush) for bringing some of the best Mediterranean food in the area to North County. The staff is also eager to help patrons feel right at home. One secret: Carefully sourced, authentic spices are part of the reason that Hamed’s flavors are so bold. Don’t overlook the thin-cut pita, which leaves plenty of room for a square of baklava or harissa. Breakfast, lunch, and dinner daily. 7847N. Lindbergh, 314-972-8282. $$
Lombardo’s Restaurant
Italian. Classic and cultivated, this longtime local favorite offers urbane Italian dining. The veal is wonderful, and pasta portions are generous. The atmosphere’s formal, like a private club, yet convivial. It’s the perfect date destination. The lunch menu’s Italian sausage sandwich is the best in town. No visit is complete without an order of handmade toasted ravioli. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily. 10488 Natural Bridge, 314-429-5151, lombardosrestaurants.com. $$$
Mi Hungry Catering & BBQ
Jamaican. Serving up a Jamaican flavor that’s happily authentic, this spot is tiny, like a cozy, comfortable diner. The three-meat combo is a good way to sample. Note the fried plantains, and don’t miss the peach cobbler. Breakfast, lunch & dinner Tue–Sun. 8660 St. Charles Rock Rd., 314-427-3368, mihungry.tripod.com. $
Omar’s Italian & Mediterranean Cuisine
Mediterranean. This St. Ann spot is an exemplar of affordable Mediterranean fare. Huge bowls of hummus, crispy falafel, and superior pita-stuffed shawarma are served in a converted Taco Bell that fills to capacity on most evenings. The hot rolls are seriously addicting. Lunch and dinner Tue–sat. 10111 St. Charles Rock Rd., 314-429-6881, omarstann.com. $$
Pearl Café
Thai. The traditional Thai menu at this Florissant restaurant is filled with chicken, beef, pork, and seafood dishes. If you’re feeling adventurous, take the King of Spice Challenge by sampling dishes of increasing hotness. There are also more than 200 beers and 125 single-malt Scotch selections. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. 8416 N. Lindbergh, 314-831-3701, dinepearlcafe.com. $$
Pirrone’s Pizzeria
Pizza. Rectangular thin-crust pies are made fresh, from the dough to the toppings at Pirrone’s, which has three area locations. Sandwiches, pastas, salads, and more are available, too. Don’t miss the lunch buffet, Monday through Friday from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Lunch and dinner daily. 17575 Washington, 314-839-3633, pirronespizza.com. $$
Playboy El Cappuccino
American. In case you are wondering, there is no cappuccino and even fewer playboys at this lounge in Baden, located near the riverfront. But this wonderfully eccentric dive has a reputation for some of the best jumbo fried shrimp and fried green beans around. On some Thursdays, a band makes for a tight fit, but it adds to the atmosphere at this low-key lounge and restaurant. Lunch & dinner daily. 8500 N. Broadway, 314-869-4098. $$
Pueblo Nuevo
Mexican. This 30-year-old mainstay delivers such memorable Mexican specialties as birria, a hearty goat stew. Try chilaquiles, a layered tortilla casserole, or the chicken nachos. Lunch and dinner Mon–Sat. 7401 N. Lindbergh, 314-831-6885, pueblonuevostl.com. $$
The Rib Shack
Barbecue. Perfectly named, The Rib Shack serves such sides as collards and yams, and they’re just as delicious as the ribs and other slow-smoked meats. Crowds are the norm, so don’t rush. And though industrial steel tables aren’t exactly homey, it’s a terrific place. Lunch and dinner daily. 8642 Natural Bridge, 314-427-1777; 1300 Cass, 314-241-2223; ribshackstl.com. $$
Ruiz’ Mexican Restaurant
Mexican. At one of St. Louis’ oldest Mexican eateries, the fourth-generation owners serve tacos, burritos, and fajitas, along with pueblo specialties. The main draw is the cemita de puerco, a hefty sandwich loaded with barbacoa pork, avocados, and cheese. Oh, and the margaritas are almost big enough to swim in. Lunch and dinner Tue–Sun. 901 N. Highway 67, 314-838-3500, dineruiz.com. $$
Simply Thai
Thai. This little joint has the best Thai in North County and some of the tastiest Thai dishes in the region. The noodles are a favorite, but try the authentic, delicious pla sam rod, with three flavors of catfish. Lunch and dinner Wed–Mon. 2470 N. Highway 67, 314-921-2179. $$
Smoki O’s
Barbecue. It’s a barbecue place run by a couple named Otis and Earline. What else do you need to know? Bizarre Foods host Andrew Zimmern dubbed the pork snoots “one of the 10 best BBQ dishes in the USA.” Lunch and early dinner Tue & Wed, open until 9 p.m. Thu–Sat. 1545 N. Broadway, 314-621-8180, smokiosbbq.com. $$
Taqueria Durango
Mexican. As with many such hole-in-the-wall joints, here we have our favorites: a trio of tacos (choose from 14 tipos de carne); the torta ahogada,with chunks of juicy pork; and on the weekends, menudo, the sinus-clearing cure for the common cold—or hangover. Lunch and dinner daily. 10238 Page, 314-429-1113. $
Vincenzo’s Italian Restaurant
Italian. Warm and intimate, Vincenzo’s features a classic Italian menu, a full-service bar, great beers, and a manageable wine list. Daily specials and “soups of the moment” provide a lively counterpoint to Italian standards. Seasonal patio dining and a private room for 60 guests are available. Lunch Mon–Fri, dinner daily. 242 S. Florissant, 314-524-7888, vincenzosstl.com. $$
