You know as soon as you see the glossy photos of Dharmendra near the entrance of Khanna’s Desi Vibes, which opened in Chesterfield in October. If the restaurant honors the pride of Punjab, India, one of the coolest Bollywood actors ever, then the eatery probably serves the fare of Northern India: kulcha, curries, samosas.
Here’s the thing, though: Today, there’s a fabulous interplay in regional Indian cooking that has resulted in an explosion of inventive dishes. For example, nargisi curry (potatoes stuffed with cheesy paneer) is a classic of Mughlai cooking from Northern India; at Desi Vibes, however, it’s influenced by Afghani nawabi cooking, which gives the dish a creamier texture than you’ll find elsewhere. The resulting combination of cultural influences makes good Indian restaurants—no matter how they’re regionally defined—a remarkably individualistic dining experience. That’s why, knowing the same dish can be quite different from place to place, connoisseurs of Indian cuisine tend to rotate restaurants.
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Desi Vibes serves some seriously intense spices, especially those such as fenugreek, ginger, and coriander, all of which perfume the air. Everything seems ramped up in flavor—and richness. Basically, if everything tastes as if it has butter in it, then it’s probably Northern Indian food, and this kitchen exploits that.
Another indication was the appearance of Amritsari dishes on the menu. Amritsar is a city in Punjab; it produces some of the most iconic dishes in northern India. That’s why we immediately went for the Amritsari fish bites. It’s a classic appetizer; one-bit chunks of what tasted like tilapia marinated in gram flour (that’s what gives it a nutty taste) and Kashmiri red chili paste that infuses a warm glow. A close comparison is the spicing used with Cajun blackening ingredients. The version here is wonderful; be sure to eat them while they’re still hot, dipping them in the mint chutney.
Amritsari style chole (pictured at right) is another regional specialty that adds to the vibe here. Stop for gas at the QT in the US and you pick up a hot dog. Stop at an Indian dhaba station and Amitsari chole will be available. It’s a thick stew of chickpeas in a “gravy” of tomatoes and onions. (The dark color comes from the addition of a tea bag during the cooking.)
The restaurant offers a choice of mild, medium, or spicy in many of its dishes. We found the medium to be tingly but not palate-searing. If you want to play with fire, then try the lamb rogan josh (pictured at right). The baby sheep is stewed in a creamy tomato base curry; if you’ve had the popular dish before, you might be surprised at how intense it can be. It’s also probably the dish that’s most incandescent at Desi Vibes.
We haven’t seen bhatti ka murgh (literally, “chicken from the kiln”) in many other local restaurants. Pairs of thighs and legs are marinated in a paste of garlic, onion, and coriander before going into the tandoor oven, which provides a whole range of flavor. It’s almost too intense for a whole meal; it’s much better as a shared appetizer.
The achari paneer tikka, a dish spiked with achari pickles in a thick slurry of paneer, is made for a cold winter night, along with a side of garlic naan. And sprinkled throughout the menu are some unexpected fusion dishes: chicken tikka crostini, minted paneer tacos, penne pasta tossed butter chicken (pictured at right), and the aforementioned fish tacos.
The interior is sleek and classy. One wall is decorated with handsomely lit, recessed alcoves displaying Indian artifacts, including a beautiful old set of stacked tiffin tins. Wall hangings, framed quilts, and other décor adorn the space. A teensy bar offers a stack of copper cups for post-prandial chai, as well as several cocktails and beers, including Indian favorites Taj Mahal and Flying Horse. And when an Indian restaurant carries cricket matches on the widescreen, it’s already well on its way to becoming a solid dining option.
Desi is Hindi slang for anyone or anything from India—when applied to a person it means an Indian living abroad. “Desi” here suggests a kind of hip, authentic Indian atmosphere that definitely describes the vibe at one of the most exciting new restaurants to open in the past few months. Tables are spaced far apart. Parking’s easy. And if you’re in the mood to just nosh on samosas and fish bites while waxing nostalgic about Dharmendra, then this is the place.
