Katsuya opens along the Delmar Loop

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Courtesy of Katsuya

Tofu Katsu as served at Katsuya on the Delmar Loop.

The crunchy karatto! crispiness of a perfectly crusted pork cutlet tonkatsu. The extravagant spread of Korean inspired panchan side dishes. The caloric luxury of a hefty Hawaiian “plate lunch.” The shoulder-to-shoulder intimacy and conviviality of a nighttime Tokyo eatery.

At Katsuya, recently opened at 6301 Delmar in the Delmar Loop, there are those moments of such felicitous convergence that a meal becomes a nearly transportive experience. When every bite satisfies not only the appetite but addresses memories and dining adventures, none of them easily replicated. Katsuya combines some of the most splendidly enjoyable meals for those with any sort of affinity with some of the East’s casual fare. 

THE PRESENTATION

Courtesy of Katsuya

Katsuya offers an innovative method of presenting meals. Think of a Japanese bento box lunch, a sturdy cardboard square with a tight-fitting lid. This allows for the easiest takeout orders ever; the boxes stack neatly and fit into bags. We watched as customers walked out with a half-dozen orders assembled to be toted easily in one hand.

Lift the lid of your box, and take in a bento that is freaking luxurious, a full meal so beautifully arranged it’s as much art as it is dinner. A hefty cutlet, panko-crispy and brown, sliced into ribbons, with a smear of karashi mustard on the side. The cup of sauce is just right, sweet and tangy with notes of smoke. Rice, dusted with powdered nori. Salad greens. A patty of egg omelet. Korean-style vinegar cucumber and a blob of Korean-style potato salad. A couple of slices of rolled sushi, splattered with a wasabi aioli are sometimes included, or an egg roll or a crab rangoon. It’s hard to know where to start.

Note that the bento is accurately constructed. Most of Japanese cuisine has rules: A bento should be laid out as it is here, with rice on the right, the main course on the left, a seasonal ingredient on the upper right, pickled vegetables across from it. Before you take a bite, you can guess this kitchen knows what it’s doing. It’s beautiful.

THE MENU

Courtesy of Katsuya

Tonkatsu are pork cutlets, pounded thin, breaded, then fried to a golden brown slab that’s sliced, served with rice. It’s an informal standard in Japan, a hugely popular, quick meal. It satisfies like fried chicken; accompanied by a slightly sweet, fragrant combination dip of soy sauce, brown sugar, and Worchestershire. Tonkatsu, served hot and crunchy, expertly made as it is here, is a delight under any circumstances. It’s a bit heretical from the perspective of the tonkatsu fan to admit it, but we’re actually more fond of chicken katsu than the pork version. In this case, it’s a breast beaten flat, panko-dusted, and fried. Chicken katsu is a standard at Hawaiian diners; that’s where this variety originated. Katsuya’s version is as perfect as any joint in Kaneohe. 

Tonkatsu is sort of the chicken fried steak of Japanese cuisine, a standard, a go-to meal when that urge for a hot crunch and tender meat comes on. Places specializing in it are often small, friendly, and bustling with the energy of hungry folks and a competent staff. Katsuya’s versions get it all exactly right.

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Courtesy of Katsuya

One secret to Katsuya's Shrimp Katsu is the house made panko. 

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Photo by George Mahe

Takoyaki, a fritter-esque side dish, contains minced octopus.

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Photo by George Mahe

Among the other options, menchi katsu, an Osaka specialty, is made of thick patties of ground beef and pork before breading and frying. It looks like arrancini. After you’ve worked your way through the pork and chicken, you might give these fat dumplings a try. (Note: Katsuya also offers something called a “cheese katsu.” Word is that it has become a children’s favorite at Japanese diners. We’ve no idea what it tastes like, but we weren't going there.) 

There is a selection of sushi boxes on the menu as well. They’re all the Americanized versions of rolled sushi, stuffed with such ingredients as avocado, cream cheese, mayo, and—who knows?—probably peanut butter cookies. The majority here use the ubiquitous California roll as a base, which we avoided by ordering the eponymously named Katsuya (pictured below), a combo roll with tuna, salmon, crab, and tempura shrimp. 

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Photo by George Mahe

Photo by George Mahe

THE ATMOSPHERE

During a recent visit, nearly every table inside the long, narrow space was filled with Asian university students. The restaurant was bright, happy, full of so many young people that, like many other restaurants in the Loop, there was a vibrant electricity.

“How come you chose to open a katsu place?” we asked the person who took our order. 

“You know of any others around here?” she replied.

Nope.

THE BOTTOM LINE

Katsuya combines some of the most splendidly enjoyable meals for those with an affinity for some of the East’s casual fare. Every bite satisfies not only the appetite but also addresses memories and dining adventures, none of them easily replicated.